of the islands visited are of the one type—­low-lying sandy atolls, densely verdured with coco-palms, and very monotonous from their sameness of appearance.  Their inhabitants, however, are widely different in manners, customs, and general mode of life.  To the ethnologist such a cruise among the Ellice, Gilbert, and Marshall Islands would no doubt be full of interest; but to the traveller in search of either beautiful scenery or sport (except fishing) they would be disappointing.

Let us suppose that the intending traveller desires to make a stay of some two or three months in the Samoan Group.  He can reach there easily enough from Sydney or Auckland by steamer once a month, either by one of the Union Steamship Company’s regular traders or by one of the San Francisco mail boats.  From Sydney the voyage occupies eight days, from Auckland five.  The outfit required for a three or four months’ stay is not a large one—­light clothing can be bought almost as cheaply in Samoa as in Sydney, a couple of guns with plenty of ammunition (for cartridges are shockingly dear in the Islands), a large and varied assortment of deep-sea tackle, a rod for fresh-water or reef fishing, and a good waterproof and rugs for camping out, as the early mornings are sometimes very chilly.  And there is one other thing that is worth while taking, even though it may cost from L30 to L50 or so in Sydney—­a good secondhand boat, with two suits of sails.  Thus provided the sportsman can sail all along the coasts of Savaii and Upolu, and be practically independent of the local storekeepers.  To hire a boat is very expensive, and to travel in native craft is horribly uncomfortable, and risky as well.  And such a boat can always be sold again for at least its cost.

A stay of two or three days, or at most a week, in Apia is quite long enough, and the stranger will get all the information he requires about the outlying districts from the Consuls or any of the old white residents.  Such provisions as are needed—­tea, sugar, flour, biscuits, tinned or other meats, &c.—­can be had at fairly cheap rates; but a large stock should be taken, for, besides the keep of the native crew of, say, four men, it must always be borne in mind that a white visitor is expected to return the hospitality he receives from the native chiefs by making a present, and the Samoans are particularly susceptible to the charms of tinned meats, sardines, salmon, and falaoa (bread or biscuit).  That such a return should be made is only just and natural, though I am sorry to say that very often it is not.  Then, again, it is very easy to stow away in the trade box in the boat eight or ten pieces of good print, cut off in pieces of six fathoms (which is enough to make a woman’s gown), about 30 lbs. of twist negrohead tobacco (twenty to thirty sticks to the pound), half a gross of lucifer matches, and such things as cotton, scissors, combs, &c., and powder, caps, and a bag of No. 3 shot for