some lightning from the north-east; to him a delightful
sight, as it promised rain, The wind began to roar
amongst the bushes, and he was nearly suffocated with
sand and dust, when the wind ceased, and for more than
an hour the rain fell plentifully. He spread
out his clothes to collect it, and assuaged his thirst
by wringing and sucking them. The night was extremely
dark, and Mr. Park directed his way by the compass,
which the lightning enabled him to observe. On
a sudden he was surprised to see a light at a short
distance, and leading his horse cautiously towards
it, heard by the lowing of the cattle and the clamour
of the herdsmen, that it was a watering place.
Being still thirsty, he attempted to search for the
wells, but on approaching too near to one of the tents,
he was perceived by a woman, who immediately gave an
alarm; Mr. Park, however, eluded pursuit by immerging
into the woods. He soon after heard the croaking
of frogs, and following the sound arrived at some
shallow muddy pools, where he and his horse quenched
their thirst. The morning being calm, Mr. Park
ascended a tree, and not only saw the smoke of the
watering place which he had passed in the night, but
also another pillar of smoke to the east, about twelve
or fourteen miles distant. Directing his course
thither, he reached some cultivated ground, on which
some negroes were at work, by whom he was informed
that he was near a Foulah village, belonging to Ali,
called Shrilla. He had some doubts about entering
it, but at last ventured, and riding up to the dooty’s
house was denied admittance, and even refused a handful
of corn for his horse. Leaving this inhospitable
door, he rode slowly out of the town towards some low
huts scattered in the suburbs. At the door of
a hovel hut, an old woman with a benevolent countenance
sat spinning cotton. Mr. Park made signs that
he was hungry, on which she immediately laid down her
distaff, invited him to the hut, and set before him
a dish of kouskous, of which he made a comfortable
meal. In return for her kindness Mr. Park gave
her a pocket handkerchief, begging at the same time
a little corn for his horse, which she readily brought.
While the horse was feeding, the people began to assemble,
and one of them whispered something to the old woman,
which greatly excited her surprise. Mr. Park
knew enough of the Foulah language, to discover that
some of the men wished to apprehend and carry him to
Ali, in hope of receiving a reward. He therefore
tied up the corn, and to prevent suspicion that he
had run away from the Moors, took a northerly direction.
When he found himself clear of his attendants, he
plunged again into the woods, and slept under a large
tree. He was awakened by three Foulahs, who supposing
him to be a Moor, pointed to the sun, and said it
was time to pray. Coming to a path leading southwards,
which he followed until midnight, he arrived at a small
pool of rain water. Resting here for the night,
the mosquitoes and flies prevented him from sleeping,
and the howling of the wild beasts in the vicinity
kept his horse in continual terror.