round the side of a steep hill, the rocks above overhanging
them in fearful uncertainty. In every cleft of
the hills, wherever there appeared the least soil,
were cottages, surrounded with small plantations of
millet, yams, and plantains, giving a beautiful variety
to the rude scenery. The road continued rising,
hill above hill, for at least two miles, until their
arrival at the large and populous town of Chaki, situated
on the top of the very highest hill. On every
hand, on the hills, on the rocks, and crowding on
the road, the inhabitants were assembled in thousands,
the women welcoming them with holding up their hands,
and chanting choral songs, and the men with the usual
salutations, and every demonstration of joy.
The caboceer was seated on the outside of his house,
surrounded by his ladies, his singing men, and singing
women, his drums, fifes, and gong-gongs. He was
a good-looking man, about fifty years of age, with
a pleasing countenance. His house was all ready
for the reception of the strangers, and he immediately
procured for them a large supply of goats, sheep, and
yams, pressing them strongly to stay a day or two
with them. He appeared to consider them as messengers
of peace, come with blessings to his king and country.
Indeed a belief was very prevalent, and seems to have
gone before them all the way, that they were charged
with a commission to make peace wherever there was
war, and to do good to every country through which
they passed. The caboceer of this town indeed
told them so, and said he hoped that they would be
enabled to settle the war with the Nyffee people and
the Fellatas, and the rebellion of the Houssa slaves,
who had risen against the king of Yariba. When
Lander shook hands with him, he passed his hand over
the heads of his chiefs, as confirming on them a white
man’s blessing. He was more inquisitive
and more communicative than any one whom they had yet
seen. He sat until nearly midnight, talking and
inquiring about England. On asking, if he would
send one of his sons to see England, he rose up with
alacrity, and said, he would go himself. He inquired
how many wives an Englishman had. On being told
only one, he seemed much astonished, and laughed greatly,
as did all his people. “What does he do,”
said he, “when one of his wives has a child?
Our caboceer has two thousand!!”
On leaving Chaka, the caboceer escorted them several miles, attended by upwards of two hundred of his wives, one of whom was young and handsome. The country was now extremely beautiful, clear of wood, and partly cultivated; and a number of Fellata villages were passed, the inhabitants of which live here as they do in most other parts of Soudan, a quiet and inoffensive pastoral life, unmolested by the black natives, and not interfering with their customs.