In the afternoon, they visited the sultan.  Mats had been spread in the castle in a small anti-chamber.  The old man was seated, but rose up to receive them, and welcomed them to his city.  He apologized for not waiting on them, but said he was sick, and had been very little out for some time.  He had guinea-worm, and cataract was forming in his eyes.  He was dressed in a nearly worn-out robe, and trousers of the same colour, and round his head was wrapped an old piece of yellow coarse cloth for a turban.  Notwithstanding the meanness of the dress, there was something pleasing and prepossessing in his countenance, and such as made them quite as much at home, as if in their tents.  They presented him with a sword, with which he was highly pleased.  Hateeta wished it had been a Bornouse; but they had none with them which they considered sufficiently good.  They were led away by the title sultan, having no idea that the Tuaricks were so vain; for they used to fill them with high notions of the wealth and greatness of the people of Ghraat.

On the whole, their interview was highly pleasing, and every one seemed much pleased with their visitors.  The old sultan showed them every kindness, and they had every reason to believe him sincere in his wishes.  After their visit, they called at the house of Lameens, son of the kadi.  He was a young man of excellent character, and universally respected.  His father was then in Ghadames, arranging, with some of the other principal inhabitants, the affairs of the community.  He had left directions with his son, to show the strangers every attention.  His house was neatly fitted up, and carpets spread on a high bed, on which the visitors seated themselves.  Several of the people who were in the castle came along with them, and by the assistance of those, who could speak Arabic, they were able to keep up a tolerably good conversation.  On inquiring about the Tuarick letters, they found the same sounds given them as they had before heard from others.  They were here at the fountain-head, but were disappointed at not being able to find a book in the Tuarick language; they were informed, that there was not one extant.

In the evening Hateeta’s kinswomen returned.  They were greatly amused, and laughed heartily at their visitors blundering out a few Tuarick words.  It may be well supposed they were very unfit companions for the ladies, as they spoke no other language than their own, and the strangers knew very little of it.  Still, however, they got on very well, and were mutually pleased.  Dr. Oudney could scarcely refrain laughing several times, at the grave manner which Clapperton assumed.  He had been tutored by Hateeta, and fully acted up to his instructions; no Tuarick could have done it better.  Their friend Hateeta was anxious that they should shine, if not make an impression on the hearts of the ladies, and therefore read a number of lectures to Clapperton, as to the manner in which he should deport himself.  He was directed not to laugh nor sing, but to look as grave as possible, which Hateeta said would be sure to please the grave Tuaricks.  The liveliness of the women, their freeness with the men, and the marked attention the latter paid them, formed a striking contrast with other Mahommedan states.