[Illustration:  Canoe and Molds Details]

It is well to study these carefully before beginning the actual work.  Thus an understanding will be gained of how the parts fit together, and of the way to proceed with the work.

Dimensioned drawings of the canoe and molds are contained in Fig. 1.  The boat is built on a temporary base, A, Fig. 2, which is a board, 14 ft. 1 in. long, 3 in. wide and 1-1/2 in. thick.  This base is fastened to the trestles and divided into four sections, the sections on each side of the center being 4 ft. long.

The next thing to be considered are the molds (Fig. 3).  These are made of 1-in. material.  Scrap pieces may be found that can be used for these molds.  The dimensions given in Fig 1 are for one-half of each form as shown in Fig. 3, under their respective letters.  The molds are then temporarily attached to the base on the division lines.

Proceed to make the curved ends as shown in Fig. 4.  Two pieces of

[Illustration:  Shaping the Canoe]

straight-grained green elm, 32 in. long, 1-3/4, in. wide and 1 in. thick, will be required.  The elm can be obtained from a carriage or blacksmith’s shop.  The pieces are bent by wrapping a piece of wire around the upper end and baseboard.  The joint between the curved piece and the base is temporary.  Place a stick between the wires and twist them until the required shape is secured.  If the wood does not bend readily, soak it in boiling water.  The vertical height and the horizontal length of this bend are shown in Fig. 4.  The twisted wire will give the right curve and hold the wood in shape until it is dry.

The gunwales are the long pieces B, Fig. 2, at the top of the canoe.  These are made of strips of ash, 15 ft. long, 1 in. wide and 1 in. thick.  Fasten them temporarily to the molds, taking care to have them snugly fit the notches shown.  The ends fit over the outside of the stem and stern pieces and are cut to form a sharp point, as shown in Fig. 5.  The ends of the gunwales are fastened permanently to the upper ends of the bent stem and stern pieces with several screws.

[Illustration:  Construction of the Various Parts]

Two other light strips, C and D, Fig. 2, are temporarily put in, and evenly spaced between the gunwales and the bottom board.  These strips are used to give the form to the ribs, and are removed when they have served their purpose.

The ribs are now put in place.  They are formed of strips of well seasoned elm or hickory, soaked in boiling water until they bend without breaking or cracking.  Each rib should be 1-1/2 in.

[Illustration:  Paddle Parts]

wide, 3/8 in. thick and long enough to reach the distance between the gunwales after the bend is made.  The ribs are placed 1 in. apart.  Begin by placing a rib in the center of the base and on the upper side.  Nail it temporarily, yet securely, and then curve the ends and place them inside of the gunwales, as shown in Fig. 6.  Fasten the ends of the rib to the gunwales with 1-in. galvanized brads.  This method is used in placing all the ribs.  When the ribs are set, remove the pieces C and D, Fig. 2, and the molds.