[Illustration:  Fig. 2]

a blacksmith make a crank 8 in. long, threaded for 5 in. as shown.  At the dead center end taper the crank and make a cup center, out of which allow a 3/16-in. point to project.  The cup prevents the point from boring into

[Illustration:  Fig. 3]

wood too rapidly.  One inch from the outer end of the crank block, Fig. 5, bore a 3/16-in. hole, and force a 1/4-in. bolt to cut its thread in the wood.  This is a set screw to hold the crank in any position desired.  Place a strap nut, threaded to fit the crank, on the head-end of the crank block, and a plain nut to act as a bearing, on the crank end.  One and one-half inches from the back of the tail-piece bore a 3/8-in. hole.  Make a peg 3/8 by 2 in.  To put in a piece of wood to turn, move the tail-piece back until the head end is over the center of the hole nearest the end of the block, then the peg will slip into second hole from the head end of the tail-piece, and into a corresponding T-rail hole, pinning the two together.  Insert wood and screw up dead center to hold it.

For a tool rest make a second piece like the base of the tail-piece, 11 in. long and fitting the small T-rail.  Cut out two blocks 1-1/2 by 2-1/4 by 3/4 in. and screw them, one on each end of the base of the tool rest, covering the half farthest from the centers, and having an 8-in. space between blocks.  On the tops of these blocks screw a strip 11 by 2-1/4 by 3/4 in.  Now for the rest proper, cut out a board 8 by 11/16 by 9 in. to slide in the slot of the rest.  Take a piece of oak 11 by 2 in., and high enough so that the top will be level with the centers of the lathe, and bevel as shown in Fig. 6.  Screw on one end of the 8 by 9-in. piece exactly in the middle.  This piece will slide in and out, closer or farther from the centers as desired, and also along the T-rail.

A center for turning rosettes, saucers, etc., may be made as follows:  Remove the spur center and bolt in its place a 1-in. circular board of the same

[Illustration:  Fig. 5]

diameter, using longer 3/16-in. stove bolts with heads countersunk.  Rotate the lathe, and with a gimlet bore a hole at the exact center and through the board.  Now take off the board and countersink on the back a place for the head of a coarse threaded screw.  Turn in a 1-3/4 -in. screw, replace the board and any block held on the end of the rotating screw will turn on and be held while being turned.  —­Contributed by L. L. Winans, Mexico, Mo.

** Reversing Small Battery Motor [405]

Make the switch out of a piece of slate (for the base) two strips of brass, a rubber strip and handle and some binding-posts from old dry batteries.  Fasten the brass strips at 5 and 6, Fig. 1, so they can swing from 1 and 3 to 2

[Illustration:  Switch]

and 4.  Hold the brass strips apart by means of the hard rubber strip and screws.  Do not let the screws come all the way through the rubber strip or you are liable to get a shock in case you should touch both screws simultaneously.  Screw a rubber handle onto the rubber strip to move the lever back and forth with.  Fig. 2 shows the arrangement of strips, handle, screws, etc., in detail.  Fig. 3 is an end view of the same.  —­Contributed by Eugene F. Tuttle, Jr., Newark, Ohio.