Cut out the leather to the size of the pattern, then moisten the surface on the rough side with a sponge soaked in water.  Be careful not to moisten the leather too much or the water will go through to the smooth side.  Have the design drawn or traced on the pattern.  Then lay the pattern on the smooth side of the leather and trace over the design with the small end of the leather tool or a hard, sharp pencil.  Trace also the line around the purse.  Dampen the leather as often as is necessary to keep it properly moistened.

After taking off the pattern, retrace the design directly on the leather to make it more distinct, using a duller point of the tool.  Press or model down the leather all around the design, making it as smooth as possible with the round side of the tool.  Work down the outside line of the design, thus raising it.

Fold the leather on the line EF.  Cut another piece of leather the size of the side ECBD of the purse, and after putting the wrong sides of the leather together, stitch around the edge as designated by the letters above mentioned.  Do not make this piece come quite up to the line EF, so that the coins may be more easily put in and taken out.  About 1 in. from the lines EF on the piece, stitch in a strip of leather about 1/4 in. wide when stitching up the purse, through which to slip the fly AGH.

** Window Anti-Frost Solution [354]

A window glass may be kept from frosting by rubbing over the inner surface a solution of 55 parts of glycerine and 1,000 parts of 60 per cent alcohol.  The odor may be improved by adding a little oil of amber.  This solution will also prevent a glass from sweating in warm weather.

** How to Make a Turbine Engine [355]

In the following article is described a machine which anyone can make, and which will be very interesting, as well as useful.  It can be made without the use of a lathe, or other tools usually out of reach of the amateur mechanic.  It is neat and efficient, and a model for speed and power.  Babbitt metal is the material used in its construction, being cast in wooden molds.  The casing for the wheel is cast in halves—­a fact which must be kept in mind.

First, procure a planed pine board 1 by 12 in. by 12 ft. long.  Cut off six

[Illustration:  Fig. 2]

pieces 12 in. square, and, with a compass saw, cut out one piece as shown in Fig. 1, following the dotted lines, leaving the lug a, and the projections B and b to be cut out with a pocket knife.  Make the lug 1/4 in. deep, and the projections B, b, 1/2 in. deep.  The entire cut should be slightly beveled.

Now take another piece of wood, and cut out a wheel, as shown in Fig. 2.  This also should be slightly beveled.  When it is finished, place it on one of the square pieces of wood, with the largest side down, then place the square piece out of which Fig. 1 was cut, around the wheel, with the open side down. (We shall call that side of a mold out of which a casting is drawn, the “open” side.) Place it so that it is even at the edge with the under square piece and place the wheel so that the space between the wheel and