At the nose and heel the runner plank guys end in a loop.  The bobstay has a loop at the nose and ends in a turnbuckle that fastens to the anchor plate under the cockpit, aft.  The shrouds, jibstay and martingale have loops at the masthead and are spliced bare over solid thimbles.  The loops are finished in pigskin and served with soft cotton twine over the splice and varnished.  The parceling is done with insulating tape.  Serve the tiller with soft cotton twine and ride a second serving over the first.  For the halyards hoisting use a jig shown in Fig. 46.  The thimble shown in Fig. 47 is made by splicing the rope to the thimble at running part of halyard and passing back and forth through cleat and thimble.  This gives a quick and strong purchase and does away with cumbersome blocks of the old-fashioned jig.  The jib-sheet leads aft to the steering cockpit.  The main-sheet ends in a jig of a single block and a single block with becket.  Be sure that your sail covers are large enough—­the sail maker always makes them too tight.  The cockpit covers must fit tightly around the cockpit rail.  Many boats have sail and cockpit covers in one piece.

The woodwork may be finished as desired by the builder.  The dimensions of the sails are given in the general drawing, Fig. 1.

** Turning Lights On and Off from Any Number of Places [310]

This can be done by the use of any number of reversing switches such as

[Illustration:  Wiring Diagram]

those shown at Band C. These are inserted between the two-way switches A and D. Turning such a switch up or down connects the four contact pieces either diagonally as at C, or lengthwise as at B. The diagram shows connection from A to D, when the lamps will be on, but by turning either of these four switches into its alternative position, shown by the dotted lines, the circuit will be broken and the lights extinguished.  When this has been done, the circuit may be restored and the lamps lighted again by altering either of the four switches in exactly the same way, and so on.

It will be observed that a reversing switch used in this way practically undoes whatever is done by the other switches.  In the accompanying diagram only two reversing switches are shown and the lights can be independently controlled from four distinct positions.  Any number of reversing switches can be placed between the two-way switches A and D to increase the number of places from which the lights could be turned on and off.  —­Contributed by J. S. Dow, Mayfield, London.

** How to Make an Electric Pendant Switch [310]

It is often desired to use a pendant switch for controlling clusters of incandescent lamps.  When such a switch is not at hand, a very good substitute can be made by screwing a common fuse plug into a key socket and connecting the socket in series with the lamps to be controlled.  In this way you get a safe, reliable, fused switch.  —­Contributed by C. C. Heyder, Hansford, W. Va.