** How to Remove Paper from Stamps [234]

Old stamps as they are purchased usually have a part of the envelope from which they are taken sticking to them and in removing this paper many valuable stamps are torn or ruined.  Place all the stamps that are stuck to pieces of envelopes in hot water and in a short time they can be separated without injury.  Dry the stamps between two white blotters.  Stamps removed in this way will have a much better appearance when placed in an album.  —­Contributed by L. Szerlip, Brooklyn, N. Y.

** Imitation Arms and Armor part I [235]

Genuine antique swords and armor, as used by the knights and soldiers in the days of old, are very expensive and at the present time practically impossible to obtain.  The accompanying illustration shows four designs of swords that anyone can make, and if carefully made, they will look very much like the genuine article.

The drawings are so plain that the amateur armorer should have very little difficulty, if any, in building up his work from the illustrations, whether he requires a single sword only, or a complete suit of armor, full size.

The pieces. or designs in this article are from authentic sources, says the English Mechanic, so that where names are given the amateur can so label them, and will thereby greatly add to their interest and value.

An executioners’ sword of the fifteenth century is shown in Fig. 1.  The blade should be about 27 in. long with a handle of sufficient length to be grasped by both hands.  The width of the blade near the handle is about 2-1/2 in., tapering down to 1-1/2 in. near the point end.  Several ridges are cut around the handle to permit a firm grip.  The cross guard is flat and about 1 in. in width.

Mark out the shape and size of the blade on a piece of wood 1/8 in. thick, using a straightedge and a pencil, and allowing a few inches more in length on which to fasten the handle.  Cut out the wood with a scroll saw or a keyhole saw, trim the edges down thin and smooth both surfaces with fine sandpaper.  The end for the handle is cut about 1 in. wide and 2 in. long.  The cross guard is cut out and a hole made in the center through which to pass the handle end of the blade.  The handle is next made, and if the amateur does not possess a lathe on which to turn the shape of the handle, the ridges around the wood may be imitated by gluing and tacking on pieces of small rope.  The handle is then mortised to receive the 1 by 2-in. end of the blade.  The cross guard is now glued and placed

[Illustration:  Swords; Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4]