Rivet the band to the holder.  Punch the rivet holes with a nail set and make the holes considerably larger than the diameter of the rivet, for in flattening the raised edges the holes will close.  Do the riveting on a metal block and keep the head of the rivet on the back of the holder.  Round up the “upset” end of the riveted part as shown in the picture.  Do not bend it over or flatten it.  This rounding is done by pounding around the outer edge of the rivet end and not flat upon the top as in driving a nail.

Clean the metal by scrubbing it off with a solution composed of one-half water and one-half nitric acid.  Use a rag tied to a stick and do not allow the acid to touch either your hands or clothes.  A metal lacquer may next be applied to keep the metal from early corrosion.

** How to Make a Camp Stool [222]

The stool, as shown in Fig. 1, is made of beech or any suitable wood

[Illustration:  Camp Stool Details]

with a canvas or carpet top.  Provide four lengths for the legs, each 1 in. square and 18-1/2 in. long; two lengths, l-1/8 in. square and 11 in. long, for the top, and two lengths, 3/4 in. square, one 8-1/2 and the other 10-1/2 in. long, for the lower rails.

The legs are shaped at the ends to fit into a 5/8-in. hole bored in the top pieces as shown in Fig. 2, the distance between the centers of the holes being 7-5/8 in. in one piece and 9-5/8 in. in the other.  The lower rails are fitted in the same way, using a 1/2-in. hole bored into each leg 2-1/2 in. up from the lower end.

Each pair of legs has a joint for folding and this joint is made by boring a hole in the middle of each leg, inserting a bolt and riveting it over washers with a washer placed between the legs as shown in Fig. 3.  The entire length of each part is rounded off for the sake of neatness as well as lightness.

About 1/2 yd. of 11-in. wide material will be required for the seat and each end of this is nailed securely on the under side of the top pieces.  The woodwork may be stained and varnished or plain varnished and the cloth may be made to have a pleasing effect by stencilling in some neat pattern.

** A Small Home-Made Electric Motor [222]

The accompanying photographs show the construction of a very unique electric motor, the parts consisting of the frame from an old bicycle pedal wrapped with insulated wire to make the armature and three permanent magnets taken from an old telephone magneto.  The pedal, being ball bearing, rotated with very little friction and at a surprisingly high rate of speed.

[Illustration:  The Motor Complete]

The dust cap on the end of the pedal was removed and a battery connection, having quite a length of threads, was soldered to it as shown in the photograph.  The flanges were removed from an ordinary spool and two strips of brass fastened on its circumference for the commutator.  The spool was held in position by a small binding