As I needed several small sprocket wheels and had none on hand, I made them quickly without other expense than the time required, from scrap material.  Several old hubs with the proper size bore were secured.  These were put on an arbor and turned to the size of the bottom of the teeth.  Hole were drilled and tapped to correspond to the number of teeth required and old stud bolts turned into them.  The wheels were again placed on the arbor and the studs turned to the required size.  After rounding the ends of the studs, the sprockets were ready for use and gave perfect satisfaction.  —­Contributed by Charles Stem, Phillipsburg, New York.

** Pot-Cover Closet [16]

The sides of the cover closet are cut as shown in Fig. 1 and shelves are nailed between them at a slight angle.

[Illustration:  Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Closet for Holding Pot Covers]

No dimensions are given as the space and the sizes of the covers are not always the same.  The back is covered with thin boards placed vertically.  The front can be covered with a curtain or a paneled door as shown.  —­Contributed by Gilbert A. Wehr, Baltimore, Md.

** Aid in Mixing Salad Dressing [16]

Some cooks find it a very difficult matter to prepare salad dressing, principally mayonnaise dressing, as the constant stirring and pouring of oil and liquids are required in the operation.  The simple homemade device shown in the accompanying sketch greatly assists

[Illustration:  Bottle in Stand]

in this work.  It consists of a stand to hold a bottle, the mouth of which rests against a. small gate directly in the rear of the attached tin trough.  The weight of the bottle and the contents against the gate serves as a check or stopper.  If the gate is raised slightly, it will permit a continuous flow of liquid of the desired amount.

** Saving Overexposed Developing Prints [16]

In using developing papers, either for contact printing or enlargements, you are, by all rules of the game, entitled to a certain number of overexposed prints, says a correspondent of Camera Craft.  But there is no reason why you should lose either the paper or the time and trouble expended in making these prints.  By using the following method, you can turn these very dark prints into good ones.

First:  these overexposed prints must be fully developed.  Do not try to save them by rushing them out of the developer into the short-stop or fixing bath.  The results will be poor, and, if you try to tone them afterward, the color will be an undesirable, sickly one.  Develop them into strong prints, thoroughly fix, and wash until you are sure all hypo is removed.  In my own practice, I carry out this part of the work thoroughly, then dry the prints and lay aside these dark ones until there is an accumulation of a dozen or more, doing this to avoid too frequent use of the very poisonous bleaching solution.  The bleacher is made up as follows and should be plainly marked “Poison.”