while such heights as Barton Hill in Leicestershire
and Leith Hill in Surrey were heavily scored with
names of places seen, the latter including that oft-told
tale—a legend, so far as the present writer
is aware—of St. Paul’s dome and the
sea being visible with a turn of the head. Though
our idea of proportion in relation to scenery has suffered
a change, Gilbert White’s phrase must not be
sneered at; and most comparisons are stupidly unfair.
The outline of Mount Caburn is a rounded edition of
the most perfect of all forms. The rolling undulations
of the tamest portions of the range are broken by
combes whose sides are steep enough to give a spice
of adventure to their descent. The “prospects,”
as such, are immeasurably superior to those obtainable
from most of the mountains of the north and west,
where a distant view is rare by reason of the surrounding
chain of heights, and where the chance of any view
at all to reward the climber is remote unless he chooses
that fortnight in early June or late September when
the peaks are usually unshrouded. Really bad
weather, long continued, is uncommon in the Down country.
A dull or wet spell is soon over. The writer
has set out from Worthing in a thin drizzle of the
soaking variety, descending from a sky of lead stretching
from horizon to horizon, which in the north would be
accepted as an institution of forty-eight hours at
least, and on arriving at the summit of Chanctonbury
has been rewarded by a glorious green and gold expanse
glittering under a dome of intense blue.
[Illustration: Market cross, Alfriston.]
From the wooded heights of the Hampshire border to
that grand headland where the hills find their march
arrested by the sea, the escarpment of the Downs is
sixty miles long and every mile is beautiful.
It would be an ideal holiday, a series of holy days,
to follow the edge all the way, meeting with only
three valley breaks of any importance; but the charm
of the hill villages nestling in their tree embowered
and secluded combes would be too much for any ordinary
human, especially if he were thirsty, so in this book
the traveller is taken up and down without any regard
for his consequent fatigue, when it is assured that
his rest will be sweet, even though it may be only
under a hawthorn bush!
[Illustration: A Sussex lane, Jevington.]
“No breeze so fresh and invigorating as that
of the Sussex Downs; no turf so springy to the feet
as their soft greensward. A flight of larks flies
past us, and a cloud of mingled rooks and starlings
wheel overhead.... The fairies still haunt this
spot, and hold their midnight revels upon it, as yon
dark rings testify. The common folk hereabouts
term the good people ‘Pharisees’ and style
these emerald circles ‘Hagtracks.’
Why, we care not to enquire. Enough for us, the
fairies are not altogether gone. A smooth soft
carpet is here spread out for Oberon and Titania and
their attendant elves, to dance upon by moonlight....”
(Ainsworth: Ovingdean Grange.)