Little Paul afterwards went to Dr. Blimber’s, which “was a mighty fine house fronting the sea”; this has been identified as being on or near the site now occupied by the Metropole.  Thackeray, whose verdict on the town is quoted at the head of this chapter, laid several scenes among these squares and crescents and gave to one of his greatest characters the town’s best known feature as a title.

The extraordinary and incongruous building in the Steyne known as the Pavilion was built by Nash at the instigation of George IV.  The architect cannot be entirely blamed for the monstrosity, the general idea and “style” was no doubt conceived by his patron.  This is how the Pavilion impressed Cobbett:  “Take a square box the sides of which are three feet and a half and the height a foot and a half.  Take a large Norfolk turnip, cut of the green of the leaves, leave the stalk nine inches long, tie these round with a string three inches from the top, and put the turnip on the middle of the top of the box.  Then take four turnips of half the size, treat them in the same way, and put them on the corners of the box.  Then take a considerable number of bulbs, of the Crown-Imperial, the narcissus, the hyacinth, the tulip, the crocus and others; let the leaves of each have sprouted to about an inch more or less according to the size of the bulb; put all these pretty promiscuously but pretty thickly on top of the box.  Then stand off and look at your architecture.”

[Illustration:  THE PAVILION, BRIGHTON.]

The building now belongs to the town, and the stables (The “Dome”) form a very fine concert hall.  The adjacent buildings, all part of the Pavilion, are used as Museum, Library and Picture Gallery.  The residence of Mrs. Fitzherbert still overlooks the Steyne, up the steps of this house Barrymore drove his carriage and pair to the great detriment of both house and equipage.  The Y.M.C.A. now occupy the premises.  One of the best descriptions of the Regent’s Brighton is in “Rodney Stone.”

It was about 1826 that the greatest growth in building took place; from about this period date those magnificent squares, Regency and Brunswick in Hove, and Sussex Square in Kemp Town.

The Steyne is now a pleasant public garden; it was originally the “Stane” or rock upon which fishing nets were dried.  St. Peter’s Church at the north end was built in 1824 by Barry, and for its period is not unpleasing.  In Church Street is the only ancient church in Brighton; it is dedicated to St. Nicholas; and was to a great extent rebuilt in 1853.  Note its fine gilt screen and the Norman font with a representation of the Lord’s Supper and certain scenes connected with the sea, but too archaic to be actually identified.  In a chantry chapel is the Wellington memorial, an ornate cross eighteen feet high.  The Duke was a worshipper here while a pupil of the then vicar, and the restoration of the church was a part of the memorial scheme.  Captain Tattersell, who was instrumental in the escape of Charles II, is buried in the churchyard and a monument sets forth—­