The winding lane on the eastern bank of the Cuckmere is thick with a glaring white dust on the dry days of summer, but there is no other practicable route to Litlington; where is a quaint and interesting old church with arches formed of the native chalk.  This village is growing rather than decaying, and appears to be, in a small way, an asylum for those who have grown weary of the broader highways.  It is in a most delightful situation and is even within reach of a morning dip in the sea for those vigorous enough to undertake a three mile walk each way.  “Tea” placards nestling among the roses and ivy on the cottage walls also testify its attractions to holiday wayfarers, though the way to Litlington, even for the motor-cyclist, is too strenuous for the village to become overcrowded or vulgar.

[Illustration:  LITLINGTON.]

The Cuckmere now begins to widen its banks and the theory that the waters once extended from side to side of the valley seems tenable as we view the wide expanse of sedgy swamp through which the present channel has been artificially cut.  Cuckmere Haven is the name given to the bay between the last of the “Seven Sisters” and the eastern slopes of Seaford Head which should be ascended for the sake of the lovely view up the valley, seen at its best from this end.

“The only light that suits the tranquillity and tender pathos of the region is that which fills the dimples of the Downs with inexpressibly soft and dreamy expressions, and quickens the plain by revealing the individuality of every blade of grass and plough-turned clod by its own shadow.”

(Coventry Patmore.)

Nearly all the villages of the Cuckmere are in sight and make together perhaps the most likely to be remembered of Sussex pictures.  It is surprising how little this tranquil vale is known except to the chance visitor from Seaford.  When one remembers the much exploited and spoilt beauty spots of Dorset and Devon one feels nervous for the future of these lesser known but equally charming sea-combes of Sussex.

A short distance from the haven a steep gulley leads to the beach with a convenient chain and rope to prevent too sudden a descent.  It has been suggested that through this gap the Romans passed from their moored fleets to the fortified settlements above.  It was at one time possible to descend by another opening higher up the cliff to a ledge called “Puck Church Parlour.”  This is now inaccessible except to seabirds.  The well-known view of the “Seven Sisters” is taken hereabouts and the disused “Belle Tout” lighthouse stands up well on the western slopes of Beachy Head, looking no distance across the Cuckmere bay.

On the way from Litlington a slight divergence of half a mile or so might have been made to West Dean; this is a most sequestered little hamlet, famous only as the meeting place between the great Alfred and Asser, though some authorities claim the West Dean between Midhurst and Chichester as the authentic spot.  There is a Norman arch in the tower of the church and also several canopied tombs and some good stained glass.  Here is another priest’s house even older than the one we have seen at Alfriston.  George Gissing well describes the village and the surrounding country in his novel Thyrza.