I still found the heat at sea far from unendurable; a soft wind continually wafted its cooling influence towards us, and an awning had been spread out to shelter us from the rays of the sun.  But what a contrast when we come to land!  As I sat in the room here the perspiration dropped continually from my brow, and now I began to understand what is meant by being in the tropics.  I could scarcely await the hour when I should be shewn to a room to change my clothes; but to-day I was not to have an opportunity of doing so, for at five o’clock a messenger came from Mr. Bartlett with the welcome intelligence that we could continue our journey, as nothing was to be feared from the Druses and Maronites, and the plague only reigned in isolated places through which it was not necessary that we should pass.  He had already engaged a servant who would act as cook and dragoman (interpreter); provisions and cooking utensils had also been bought, and places were engaged on an Arab craft.  Nothing, therefore, remained for me to do but to be on the sea-shore by six o’clock, where his servant would be waiting for me.  I was much rejoiced on hearing this good news:  I forgot that I required rest and a change of clothes, packed up my bundle, and hurried to the beach.  Of the town I only saw a few streets, where there was a great bustle.  I also noticed many swarthy Arabs and Bedouins, who wore nothing but a shirt.  I did not feel particularly anxious to see Beyrout and its vicinity, as I intended to return soon and visit any part I could not examine now.

Before sunset we had already embarked on board the craft that was to carry us to the long-wished-for, the sacred coast of Joppa.  Every thing was in readiness, and we lacked only the one thing indispensable—­a breeze.

No steamers sail between Joppa and Beyrout; travellers must be content with sailing vessels, deficient alike as regards cleanliness and convenience; they are not provided with a cabin, or even with an awning, so that the passengers remain day and night under the open sky.  Our vessel carried a cargo of pottery, besides rice and corn in sacks.

Midnight approached, and still we were in harbour, with not a breath of wind to fill our sails.

Wrapping my cloak tightly round me, I lay down on the sacks, in the absence of a mattress; but I was not yet sufficiently tired out to be able to find rest on such an unusual couch.  So I rose again in rather a bad humour, and looked with an evil eye on the Arabs lying on the sacks around me, who were not “slumbering softly,” but snoring lustily.  By way of forcing myself, if possible, into a poetical train of thought, I endeavoured to concentrate my attention on the contemplation of the beautiful landscape by moonlight; but even this would not keep me from yawning.  My companion seemed much in the same mood; for he had also risen from his soft couch, and was staring gloomingly straight before him.  At length, towards three o’clock in the morning of