I was advised to perform this journey in male attire; but I did not think it advisable to do so, as my short, spare figure would have seemed to belong to a youth, and my face to an old man.  Moreover, as I had no beard, my disguise would instantly have been seen through, and I should have been exposed to much annoyance.  I therefore preferred retaining the simple costume, consisting of a kind of blouse and wide Turkish trousers, which I then wore.  The further I travelled, the more I became persuaded how rightly I had acted in not concealing my sex.  Every where I was treated with respect, and kindness and consideration were frequently shewn me merely because I was a woman.  On

May 17th

I embarked on board a steamboat belonging to the Austrian Lloyd.  It was called the Archduke John.

It was with a feeling of painful emotion that I stood on the deck, gazing with an air of abstraction at the preparations for the long voyage which were actively going on around me.  Once more I was alone among a crowd of people, with nothing to depend on but my trust in Providence.  No friendly sympathetic being accompanied me on board.  All was strange.  The people, the climate, country, language, the manners and customs—­all strange.  But a glance upward at the unchanging stars, and the thought came into my soul, “Trust in God, and thou art not alone.”  And the feeling of despondency passed away, and soon I could once more contemplate with pleasure and interest all that was going on around me.

Near me stood a poor mother who could not bear to part with her son.  Time after time she folded him in her arms, and kissed and blessed him.  Poor mother! wilt thou see him again, or will the cold ground be a barrier between you till this life is past?  Peace be with you both!

A whole tribe of people came noisily towards us;—­they were friends of the crew, who bounced about the ship from stem to stern, canvassing its merits in comparison with French and English vessels.

Suddenly there was a great crowding on the swinging ladder, of chests, boxes, and baskets.  Men were pushing and crushing backwards and forwards.  Turks, Greeks, and others quarrelled and jostled each other for the best places on the upper deck, and in a few moments the whole large expanse wore the appearance of a bivouac.  Mats and mattresses were every where spread forth, provisions were piled up in heaps, and culinary utensils placed in order beside them; and before these preparations had been half completed the Turks began washing their faces, hands, and feet, and unfolding their carpets, to perform their devotions.  In one corner of the ship I even noticed that a little low tent had been erected; it was so closely locked, that for a long time I could not discern whether human beings or merchandise lay concealed within.  No movement of the interior was to be perceived, and it was not until some days afterwards that I was informed