On their Easter days the Greeks have a feast in the great Campo.  On all the three holidays, the hamaks (water-carriers and porters), after the service is over, march in large numbers to the Campo with songs and music, with noise and shouting, waving their handkerchiefs in the air.  Arrived at their destination, they divide into different groups, and proceed to amuse themselves much after the manner of other nations.  A number of tents are erected, where a great deal of cooking and baking is carried on.  Large companies are sitting on the ground or on the tombstones, eating and drinking in quiet enjoyment.  We see a number of swings laden with men and children; on this side we hear the squeaking of a bagpipe, on that the sound of a pipe and drum, uttering such dismal music that the hearer instinctively puts a finger into each ear.  To this music a real bear’s dance is going on.  Six or eight fellows stand in a half circle round the musician, and two leaders of these light-toed clodhoppers continually wave their handkerchiefs in the air as they stamp slowly and heavily round in a circle.  The women are allowed to appear at this feast, but may neither take part in the swinging nor in the dancing.  They therefore keep up a brave skirmishing with the sweetmeats, coffee, and delicacies of all kinds.  The more wealthy portion of the community employ these days in riding to Baluklid, to gaze and wonder at the miracle of the half-baked and yet living fishes.

As the Greeks are not so good-natured as the Turks, the latter seldom take part in their festivities.  Turkish women never appear on these occasions.

On the 8th of May I saw a truly Turkish fete in the neighbourhood of the Achmaidon (place of arrows).

In a plain surrounded on all sides by hills, men of all nations formed a large but closely-packed circle.  Kavasses (gens d’arme) were there to keep order among the people, and several officers sat among the circle to keep order among the kavasses.  The spectacle began.  Two wrestlers or gladiators made their appearance, completely undressed, with the exception of trousers of strong leather.  They had rubbed themselves all over with oil, so that their joints might be soft and supple, and also that their adversary should not be able to obtain a firm hold when they grappled together.  They made several obeisances to the spectators, began with minor feats of wrestling, and frequently stopped for a few moments in order to husband their strength.  Then the battle began afresh, and became hotter and hotter, till at length one of the combatants was hailed as victor by the shouting mob.  He is declared the conqueror who succeeds in throwing his opponent in such a manner that he can sit down upon him as on a horse.  A combat of this kind usually lasts a quarter of an hour.  The victor walks triumphantly round the circle to collect his reward.  The unfortunate vanquished conceals himself among the spectators, scarcely daring to lift his eyes.  These games last for several hours; as one pair of gladiators retire, they are replaced by another.