The morning of the 23d was ushered in by the booming of the cannon.  All the Turkish ships had hoisted their flags, and garlands of coloured paper were twined round the masts to their very tops.

At nine o’clock I proceeded in the company of several friends to Constantinople, to see the grand progress of the Sultan to the mosque.  As with us, it is here the custom to post soldiers on either side of the way.  The procession was headed by the officers and government officials; but after every couple of officers or statesmen followed their servants, generally to the number of twelve or fifteen persons, in very variegated costumes, partly Turkish, partly European, and withal somewhat military; in fact, a perfect motley.  Then came the Emperor’s state-horses, splendid creatures, the majority of them of the true Arabian breed, decorated with saddle-cloths richly embroidered with gold, pearls, and precious stones, and proudly moving their plumed heads.  Their spirited appearance and beautiful paces excited the admiration of all the learned in such matters.  They were followed by a number of pages on foot; these pages are not, however, youths, as in other countries, but men of tried fidelity.  In their midst rode the youthful Emperor, wrapped in his cape, and wearing in his fez-cap a fine heron’s plume, buckled with the largest diamond in Europe.  As the Sultan passed by, he was greeted by the acclamations of the military, but not of the people.  The soldiers closed the procession; but their bearing is not nearly so haughty as that of the horses.  The reason of this is simple enough—­no one dares look upon the Arabians with an evil eye, but the soldiers are entirely subject to the caprice of their officers.  I would certainly rather be the Sultan’s horse than his soldier.

The uniforms of the officers, in their profusion of gold embroidery, resemble those of our hussars.  The privates have very comfortable jackets and trousers of blue cloth with red trimmings; some have jackets entirely of a red colour.  The artillerymen wear red facings.  Their chaussure is pitiable in the extreme:  some have boots, not unfrequently decorated with spurs; others have shoes, trodden down at heel and terribly tattered; and some even appear in slippers.  All are without stockings, and thus naked feet peer forth every where.  The position of the men with regard to each other is just as irregular; a little dwarf may frequently be seen posted next to a giant, a boy of twelve or fourteen years near a grey-headed veteran, and a negro standing next to a white man.

At this feast a great concourse of people was assembled, and every window was crowded with muffled female heads.

We had been advised not to be present at this ceremony, as it was stated to be of a purely religious nature, and it was feared we should be exposed to annoyance from the fanaticism of the Mussulmen.  I am glad to say, however, that the curiosity of my party was stronger than their apprehensions.  We pushed through every where, and I had again occasion to feel assured that grievous wrong is frequently done the good Turks.  Not only was there no appearance of a disposition to annoy us, but we even obtained very good places without much trouble.