After we had satisfied our curiosity the huntsman led us to the neighbouring hunting-lodge, and to a little lake where a number of ducks are fattened.  This man spoke of another and a much more remarkable grotto, of which he possessed the keys, and which he should have great pleasure in shewing us.  Though twilight was rapidly approaching we determined to go, as the place was not far off.  The man opened the door, and invited us to enter the cavern, advising us at the same time to bend down open-mouthed, as we had done in the Dog’s Grotto, and at the same time to fan the air upwards with our hands, that we might the better inhale it,—­a proceeding which he asserted to be peculiarly good for the digestive organs.  His eloquence was so powerful, that we could not help suspecting the man; and it struck us as very strange that he was so particularly anxious we should enter the cavern together.  This, therefore, we refused to do; and Herr Brettschneider remained outside with our guide, while I entered alone and did as he had directed.  Though the lower stratum of air in the Dog’s Grotto had been highly mephitic, the atmosphere here was more stifling still.  I rushed forth with the speed of lightning; and now we clearly saw through the fellow’s intention.  If Herr Brettschneider and myself had entered together, he would undoubtedly have shut the door, and we should have been stifled in a few moments.  We did not allow him to notice our suspicions, but merely said that we could not spend any more time here to-day on account of the lateness of the hour.  Our worthy friend accompanied us through a wild and gloomy region, with his gun on his shoulder; and I was not a little afraid of him, for he kept talking about his honesty and the good intentions he had towards us.  We kept, however, close beside him, and watched him narrowly, without betraying any symptom of apprehension; and at length, to our great relief, we gained the open road.

The royal villa of Portici lies about four “miglia” from Naples, and we made an excursion thither by railway.  Both the palace and the gardens are handsome, and of considerable size.  Thence we proceeded to Resina.  Portici and Resina are so closely connected together by villas and houses, that a stranger would take them for one place.  Beneath Resina lies Herculaneum, a city destroyed seventy-nine years after the birth of our Saviour.  In the year 1689 a marquis caused a well to be dug in his garden, when, at a depth of sixty-five feet, the labourers came upon fragments of marble with divers inscriptions.  It was not until 1720 that systematic excavations were made.  Even then great caution was necessary, as Resina is unfortunately built upon Herculaneum, and the safety of the houses became endangered.

At Resina we procured torches and a guide, and descended to view the subterranean city.  We saw the theatre, a number of houses, several temples, and the forum.  Some fine frescoes are still to be distinguished on the walls of the apartments.  The floors are covered with mosaic; but still this place does not offer nearly so many objects of interest as another which was overwhelmed at the same time—­Pompeii.