During this excursion the time had passed so rapidly that I was soon compelled to think, not of a visit to the catacombs, but of my return on board.

I proceeded to the sea-shore, where the Syracusans have built a very pretty promenade, and was rowed back to the steamer.

Of all the passengers I was the only one who had seen any thing of Syracuse; all the rest had spent the greater part of the time allowed them in the inn, and at most had been for a short walk in the town.  But they had obtained an exceedingly good dinner; and thus we had each enjoyed ourselves in our own way.

At three o’clock we quitted the beautiful harbour of Syracuse, and three hours brought us to

Catanea.

This voyage was one of the most beautiful and interesting that can be imagined.  The traveller continually sees the most charming landscapes of blooming Sicily; and at Syracuse we can already descry on a clear day the giant Etna rearing its head 10,000 feet above the level of the sea.

At six in the evening we disembarked; but those going farther had to be on board again by midnight.  I had intended to remain at Catanea and ascend Mount Etna; but on making inquiries I was assured that the season was too far advanced for such an undertaking, and therefore resolved to set sail again at midnight.  I went on shore in company with a Neapolitan and his wife, for the purpose of visiting some of the churches, a few public buildings, and the town itself.  The buildings, however, were already closed, though the exteriors promised much.  We could only deplore that we had arrived an hour too late, and take a walk round the town.  I could scarcely wonder enough at the bustle in the crowded squares and chief streets, and at the shouting and screaming of the people.  The number of inhabitants is about 50,000.  The two chief streets, leading in different directions from the great square, are long, broad, and particularly well paved with large stone slabs:  they contain many magnificent houses.  The only circumstance which displeased me was, that every where, even in the chief streets, the people dry clothes on large poles at balconies and windows.  This makes the town look as though it were inhabited by a race of washerwomen.  I should not even mind so much if they were clean clothes; but I frequently saw the most disgusting rags fluttering in front of splendid houses.  Unfortunately this barbarous custom prevails throughout the whole of Sicily; and even in Naples the hanging out of clothes is only forbidden in the principal street, the Toledo:  all the other streets are full of linen.

Among the equipages, which were rolling to and fro in great numbers, I noticed some very handsome ones.  Some were standing still in the great square, while their occupants amused themselves by looking at the bustle around them, and chatted with friends and acquaintances who crowded round the carriages.  I found a greater appearance of life here than either at Naples or Palermo.