my asking him what was the matter, he replied in a whisper, that fire had broken out in the coal-room.  Now I knew the whole extent of our danger, and yet could do nothing but keep my seat, and await whatever fate should bring us.  It was most fortunate for us that the fire occurred during the daytime, and had been immediately discovered by the engine-man.  Double chain-pumps were rigged, and the whole magazine was laid under water,—­a proceeding which had the effect of extinguishing the flames.  The other passengers knew nothing of our danger; they were all asleep or sitting quietly in the cabins; the sailors were forbidden to tell them what had happened, and even my informant the cabin-boy begged me not to betray him.  We had three hundredweight of gunpowder on board.

September 14th.

We did not come in sight of land until this evening, when the goal of our journey appeared.

Malta.

We cast anchor in the harbour of Lavalette at seven o’clock.

During the whole of our journey from Alexandria the wind had been very unfavourable; the sea was frequently so agitated, that we could not walk across the deck without the assistance of a sailor.

The distance from Alexandria via Syra to Malta is 950 sea-miles.  We took eight days to accomplish this distance, landing only at Syra.  The heat was moderate enough, seldom reaching 28 or 29 degrees Reaumur.

The appearance of Malta is picturesque; it contains no mountains, and consists entirely of hills and rocks.

The town of Lavalette is surrounded by three lines of fortifications, winding like steps up the hill on which the town lies; the latter contains large fine houses, all built of stone.

September 15th.

This morning at eight o’clock we disembarked, and were marched off to keep quarantine in the magnificent castle of the Knights of St. John.

This building stands on a hill, affording a view over the whole island in the direction of Civita Vecchia.  We found here a number of clean rooms, and were immediately supplied with furniture, bedding, etc. by the establishment at a very reasonable charge.  Our host at once despatched to every guest a bill of fare for breakfast and dinner, so that each one can choose what he wishes, without being cheated as to the prices.  The keepers here are very obliging and attentive; they almost all know something of Italian, and execute any commission with which they are entrusted punctually and well.  The building for the incarcerated ones is situate on an elevated plateau.  It has two large wings, one on each side, one story high, containing apartments each with a separate entrance.  Adjoining the courtyard is the inn, and not far from it the church; neither, however, may be visited by the new-comers.  The requisite provisions are procured for them by a keeper, who takes them to the purchasers.  The church is always kept locked.