This was, however, nothing but an excuse to get home as quickly as possible.  But I was not to be frightened, and insisted that my desire should be complied with, telling them moreover that I had inquired of the consul at Suez concerning the safety of the roads, and had once more heard that there was nothing to fear.  Notwithstanding all this they would not obey, but continued to advance.  I now became angry, and desired the servant once more to stop my camel, as I was fully determined not to proceed another step.

I told him I had hired both camels and men, and had therefore a right to be mistress; if he did not choose to obey me, he might go his way with the camel-driver, and I would join the first caravan I met, and bring him to justice, let it cost me what it would.  The fellow now stopped my camel, and went away with the other and the camel-driver.  He probably expected to frighten me by this demonstration, and to compel me to follow; but he was vastly mistaken.  I remained standing where I was, and as often as he turned to look at me, made signs that he might go his way, but that I should stay.  When he saw how fearless and determined I was, he turned back, came to me, made my camel kneel down, and after helping me to alight, prepared me a resting-place on a heap of sand, where I slept delightfully for five hours; then I ordered my things to be packed up, mounted my camel, and continued my journey.

My conduct astonished my followers to such a degree, that they afterwards asked me every few hours if I wished to rest.  On our arrival at Cairo the camel-driver had not even the heart to make the customary demand for backsheesh, and my servant begged pardon for his conduct, and hoped that I would not mention the difference we had had to the consul.

The maximum temperature during this journey was 43 degrees Reaumur, and when it was perfectly calm I really felt as if I should be stifled.

This journey from Cairo to Suez can, however, be accomplished in a carriage in the space of twenty hours.  The English innkeeper established at Cairo has had a very light carriage, with seats for four, built expressly for this purpose; but a place in this vehicle costs five pounds for the journey there, and the same sum for the return.

On the following day I once more embarked on board an Arabian vessel for Alexandria.  Before my departure I had a terrible quarrel with the donkey-driver whom I usually employed.  These men, as in fact all fellahs, are accustomed to cheat strangers in every possible way, but particularly with coins.  They usually carry bad money about with them, which they can substitute for the good at the moment when they are paid, with the dexterity of jugglers.  My donkey-driver endeavoured to play me this trick when I rode to the ship; he saw that I should not require his services any more, and therefore wished to cheat me as a parting mark of attention.  This attempt disgusted me so much that I could not refrain from brandishing my whip at him in a very threatening manner, although I was alone among a number of his class.  My gesture had the desired effect; the driver instantly retreated, and I remained victor.