In a short time we had overtaken the caravan, and our camels were placed in the procession, each beast being tethered to the preceding one by a rope.  It was already quite dark, and I could barely distinguish that the people sitting on the camels before me were an Arab family.  They travelled in boxes resembling hen-coops, about a foot and a half in height, four feet in length, and as many broad.  In a box of this kind two or three men sat cross-legged; many had even spread a light tent over their heads.  Suddenly I heard my name called by a female voice.  I started, and thought I must be mistaken, for whom in the world could I meet here who knew my Christian name?  But once more a voice cried very distinctly, “Ida!  Ida!” and a servant came up, and told me that some Arab women, who had made the voyage from Atfe to Cairo in company with me, were seated on the first camel.  They sent to tell me that they were on their way to Mecca, and rejoiced to meet me once more.  I was indeed surprised that I should have made such an impression on these good people that they had not forgotten my name.

To-night I saw a glorious natural phenomenon, which so surprised me that I could not refrain from uttering a slight scream.  It may have been about eleven o’clock, when suddenly the sky on my left was lighted up, as though every thing were in flames; a great fiery ball shot through the air with lightning speed, and disappeared on the horizon, while at the same moment the gleam in the atmosphere vanished, and darkness descended once more on all around.  We travelled on throughout the whole of this night.

August 28th.

At six o’clock this morning we came in sight of the Red Sea.  The mountain-chain of Mokattam can be discerned some time previously.  Some way from Suez we came upon a well of bad, brackish water.  Notwithstanding all drawbacks, the supply was eagerly hailed.  Our people shouted, scolded, and pushed each other to get the best places; camels, horses, asses, and men rushed pell-mell towards the well, and happy was he who could seize upon a little water.  There are barracks near this well, and soldiers are posted here to promote peace—­by means of the stick.

The little town of Suez lies spread out on the sea-shore, and can be very distinctly seen from here.  The unhappy inhabitants are compelled to draw their supplies either from this well, or from one on the sea-coast four miles below Suez.  In the first case the water is brought on camels, horses, or asses; in the second it is transported by sea in boats or small ships.

The Red Sea is here rather narrow, and surrounded by sand of a yellowish-brown hue; immediately beyond the isthmus is the continuation of the great Libyan Desert.  The mountain-range of Mokattam skirts the plain on the right, from Cairo to the Red Sea.  We quite lose sight of this range until within the last ten or twelve hours before reaching Suez.  The mountains are of moderate elevation and perfectly bare; but still the eye rests with pleasure on the varied forms of the rocks.