In Alexandria I procured beef and beef-soup, for the first time since my departure from Smyrna.  In Alexandria and throughout the whole of Egypt the white bread is very delicious.

At four in the afternoon we at length set sail.  The time had passed rapidly enough with me, for there was a great deal of bustle around this canal.  Barques came and departed, took in or discharged cargo; long processions of camels moved to and fro with their drivers to fetch and carry goods; the soldiers passed by, to the sound of military music, to exercise in the neighbouring square; there was continually something new to see, so that when four o’clock arrived, I could not imagine what had become of the time.

With the exception of the crew, I was the only person on board.  These vessels are long and narrow, and are fitted up with a cabin and an awning.  The cabin is divided into two little rooms; the first and larger of these contains two little windows on each side.  The second and smaller one is often only six feet long by five broad.  The space under the awning is appropriated to the poorer class of passengers and to the servants.  It is necessary to take on board, besides provisions, a little stove, wood for fuel, kitchen-utensils and articles of this kind, a supply of water.  The water of the Nile is, indeed, very good and thoroughly tasteless, so that it is universally drunk in Alexandria, Cairo, and elsewhere; but it is very turbid and of a yellowish colour, so that it must be filtered to render it clear and pure.  Thus it happens that even on the river we are obliged to take water with us.

Handsome country-houses with gardens skirt the sides of the canal; the finest of these belongs to a pacha, the son-in-law of Mehemet Ali.  As we passed this palace I saw the Egyptian Napoleon for the first time; he is a very little old man, with a long snow-white beard; his eyes and his gestures are very animated.  Several Europeans stood around him, and a number of servants, some of them clothed in Greek, others in Turkish costume.  In the avenue his carriage was waiting, a splendid double-seated vehicle, with four beautiful horses, harnessed in the English style.  The Franks are favourably disposed towards this despot, whose subjects cherish a very opposite feeling.  His government is very lenient to Christians, while the Mussulmen are obliged to bend their necks beneath a yoke of iron slavery.

This view of villas and gardens only lasts for two hours at the most.  Afterwards we continue our journey to Atfe through a very uniform and unsatisfactory region of sandy hills and plains.  On the right we pass the Mariotic Sea; and on both sides lie villages of a very wretched appearance.

August 19th.

At eleven in the forenoon we reached Atfe, and had therefore travelled about 180 sea-miles in sixteen hours.  Atfe is a very small town, or rather a mere heap of stones.