In reference to religious matters, these people seem very fanatical; they particularly dislike strangers.  For instance, the painter S. wished to make sketches of the khan, the fountain, and a few other interesting objects or views.  For this purpose he sat down before the great coffee-house to begin with the fountain; but scarcely had he opened his portfolio before a crowd of curious idlers had gathered around him, who, as soon as they saw his intention, began to annoy him in every possible way.  They pushed the children who stood near against him, so that he received a shock every moment, and was hindered in his drawing.  As he continued to work in spite of their rudeness, several Turks came and stood directly before the painter, to prevent him from seeing the fountain.  On his still continuing to persevere, they began to spit upon him.  It was now high time to be gone, and so Mr. S. hastily gathered his materials together and turned to depart.  Then the rage of the rabble broke noisily forth.  They followed the artist yelling and screaming, and a few even threw stones at him.  Luckily he succeeded in reaching our convent unharmed.

Mr. S. had been allowed to draw without opposition at Constantinople, Brussa, Ephesus, and several other cities of the East, but here he was obliged to flee.  Such is the disposition of these people, whom many describe as being so friendly.

The following morning at sunrise Mr. S. betook himself to the terrace of the convent, to make a sketch of the town.  Here too he was discovered, but luckily not until he had been at work some hours, and had almost completed his task; so that as soon as the first stone came flying towards him, he was able quietly to evacuate the field.

July 5th.

In Damascus we met Count Zichy, who had arrived there with his servants a few days before ourselves, and intended continuing his journey to Balbeck to-day.

Count Zichy’s original intention had been to make an excursion from this place to the celebrated town of Palmyra, an undertaking which would have occupied ten days.  He therefore applied to the pacha for a sufficient escort for his excursion.  This request was, however, refused; the pacha observing, that he had ceased for some time to allow travellers to undertake this dangerous journey, as until now all strangers had been plundered by the wandering Arabs, and in some instances men had even been murdered.  The pacha added, that it was not in his power to furnish so large an escort as would be required to render this journey safe, by enabling the travellers to resist all aggressions.  After receiving this answer, Count Zichy communicated with some Bedouin chiefs, who could not guarantee a safe journey, but nevertheless required 6000 piastres for accompanying him.  Thus it became necessary to give up the idea altogether, and to proceed instead to Balbeck and to the heights of Lebanon.

At the hour of noon we rode out of the gate of Damascus in company with Count Zichy.  The thermometer stood at 40 degrees Reaumur.  Our procession presented quite a splendid appearance; for the pacha had sent a guard of honour to escort the Count to Balbeck, to testify his respect for a relation of Prince M—–.