I had already been at Beyrout ten long, long days, and still no opportunity offered of getting to Alexandria.  But at the end of June the worthy artist Sattler, whose acquaintance I had made at Constantinople, arrived here.  He found me out, and proposed that I should travel to Damascus with Count Berchtold, a French gentleman of the name of De Rousseau, and himself, instead of wasting my time here.  This proposition was a welcome one to me, for I ardently desired to be released from my fowls’ nest.  My arrangements were soon completed, for I took nothing with me except some linen and a mattress, which were packed on my horse’s back.

Journey from Beyrout to Damascus, Balbeck, and mount Lebanon.

July 1st.

At one o’clock in the afternoon we were all assembled before the door of M. Battista’s inn, and an hour later we were in our saddles hastening towards the town-gate.  At first we rode through a deep sea of sand surrounding the town; but soon we reached the beautiful valley which lies stretched at the foot of the Anti-Libanus, and afterwards proceeded towards the range by pleasant paths, shaded by pine-woods and mulberry-plantations.

But now the ascent of the magnificent Anti-Libanus became steeper and more dangerous, as we advanced on rocky paths, often scarcely a foot in breadth, and frequently crossed by fissures and brooklets.  Some time elapsed before I could quite subdue my fear, and could deliver myself wholly up to the delight of contemplating these grand scenes, so completely new to us Europeans, leaving my horse, which planted its feet firmly and without once stumbling among the blocks of stone lying loosely on each other, to carry me as its instinct directed; for these horses are exceedingly careful, being well used to these dangerous roads.  We could not help laughing heartily at our French companion, who could not screw up his courage sufficiently to remain on his horse at the very dangerous points.  At first he always dismounted when we came to such a spot; but at length he grew weary of eternally mounting and dismounting, and conquered his fear, particularly when he observed that we depended so entirely on the sagacity of our steeds, and gave ourselves completely up to the contemplation of the mountains around us.  It is impossible adequately to describe the incomparable forms of this mountain-range.  The giant rocks, piled one above the other, glow with the richest colours; lovely green valleys lie scattered between; while numerous villages are seen, sometimes standing isolated on the rocks, and at others peering forth from among the deep shade of the olive and mulberry trees.

[Illustration 6.  Lebanon. ill6.jpg]

The sun sinking into the sea shot its last rays through the clear pure air towards the highest peaks of the mighty rocks.  Every thing united to form a picture which when once seen can never be forgotten.