“We had proceeded only a few hundred yards when the river gradually widened to two miles, and continued so as far as the eye could reach.  It looked very much like an artificial canal; the banks having the appearance of a dwarf wall, with vegetation beyond.  In most places the water was extremely shallow, but in others it was deep enough to float a frigate.  During the first two hours of the day, the scenery was as interesting and picturesque as can be imagined.  The banks were literally covered with hamlets and villages; fine trees, bending under the weight of their dark and impenetrable foliage, everywhere relieved the eye from the glare of the sun’s rays, and, contrasted with the lively verdure of the little hills and plains, produced the most pleasing effect.  Afterwards, however, there was a decided change; the banks, which before consisted of dark earth, clay, or sand, were now composed of black rugged rocks; large sand-banks and islands were scattered in the river, which diverted it into a variety of little channels, and effectually destroyed its appearance.

“We had heard so unfavourable an account of the state of the river at one particular place which we should have to pass, that our people were compelled to disembark and walk along the banks a considerable way till we had passed it, when we took them in again.  We found the description to be in no wise exaggerated; it presented a most forbidding appearance, and yields only to the state of the Niger near Boossa in difficulty and danger.  On our arrival at this formidable place, we discovered a range of black rocks running directly across the stream, and the water, finding only one narrow passage, rushed through it with great impetuosity, over-turning and carrying away everything in its course.  Our boatmen, with the assistance of a number of the natives, who planted themselves on the rocks on each side of the only channel, and in the stream at the stern of the canoe, lifted it by main force into smoother and safer water.  The last difficulty with respect to rocks and sand-banks was now overcome, and in a very little time we came to the termination of all the islands, after which, it is said, there is not a single dangerous place up the Niger.  The river here presented its noblest appearance; not a single rock nor sand-bank was anywhere perceptible; its borders resumed their beauty, and a strong, refreshing breeze, which had blown during the whole of the morning, now gave it the motion of a slightly-agitated sea.  In the course of the morning we passed two lovely little islands, clothed in verdure, which at a short distance looked as charming as the fabled gardens of Hesperia; indeed no spot on earth can excel them in beauty of appearance.  These islands are inhabited by a few individuals.”

Upon leaving Yaoorie, a venerable Arab chief pretended great regard for the travellers, though he used them deceitfully; they had, however, “enjoyed an innocent kind of revenge, in administering to him a powerful dose of medicine, which though harmless in its effects, had yet been very troublesome to him.  Indeed, it was not till we had ‘jalaped’ the sultan, his sister, and all the royal family, that we were permitted to take our farewell of Yaoorie.”