queen, and that she had brought a kingdom as a marriage
portion to her husband. Her son, Charles the Bad,
a prince whose turbulent and evil disposition caused
so much misfortune to France, was born here.
Happy too had it been for him, had he here closed his
eyes before he entered upon the wider theatre of the
world! During his early days passed at Navarre,
he is said to have shewn an ingenuousness of disposition
and some traits of generosity, which gave rise to hopes
that were miserably falsified by his future life.—The
present edifice, however, a modern French Chateau,
retains nothing more than the name of the structure
which was built by the queen, and which was levelled
with the ground, in the year 1686, by the Duc de Bouillon,
the lord of the country, who erected the present mansion.
His descendants resided here till the revolution,
at which time they emigrated, and the estate became
national property. It remained for a considerable
period unoccupied, and was at last granted to Josephine,
by her imperial husband. At present, the domain
belongs to her son, Prince Eugene, by whom the house
has lately been stripped of its furniture. Many
of the fine trees in the park have also been cut down,
and the whole appears neglected and desolate.
His mother did not like Navarre: he himself never
saw it: the queen of Holland alone used occasionally
to reside here.—The principal beauty of
the place lies in its woods; and these we saw to the
greatest advantage. It was impossible for earth
or sky to look more lovely.—The house is
of stone, with large windows; and an ill-shaped dome
rises in the centre. The height of the building
is somewhat greater than its width, which makes it
appear top-heavy; and every thing about it is formal;
but the noble avenue, the terrace-steps, great lanthorns,
iron gates, and sheets of water on either side of
the approach, are upon an extensive scale, and in
a fine baronial style.—Yet, still they are
inferior to the accompaniments of the same nature which
are found about many noblemen’s residences in
England.—The hall, which is spacious, has
a striking effect, being open to the dome. Its
sides are painted with military trophies, and with
the warlike instruments of the four quarters of the
globe. We saw nothing else in the house worthy
of notice. It is merely a collection of apartments
of moderate size; and, empty and dirty as they were,
they appeared to great disadvantage. In the midst
of the solitude of desolation, some ordinary portraits
of the Bouillon family still remain upon the walls,
as if in mockery of departed greatness.
We were unable to direct our course to Cocherel, a village about sixteen miles distant, on the road to Vernon, celebrated as the spot where a battle was fought, in the fourteenth century, between the troops of Navarre, and those of France, commanded by Du Guesclin.—I notice this place, because it is possible that, if excavations were made there, those antiquaries who delight in relics of the remotest age of European