as to allow to be seen on the forehead a small portion
of hair, which divides and falls in two or three spiral
ringlets on each side of the face. The remainder
of the dress is generally composed of a colored petticoat,
probably striped, an apron of a different color, a
bodice still differing in tint from the rest, and
a shawl, uniting all the various hues of all the other
parts of the dress. Some of the peasants from
the country look still more picturesque, when mounted
on horseback bringing vegetables: they keep their
situation without saddle or stirrup, and seem perfectly
at ease. But the best figures on horseback are
the young men who take out their masters’ horses
to give them exercise, and who are frequently seen
on the
grand cours. They ride without hat,
coat, saddle, or saddle-cloth, and with the shirt
sleeves rolled up above the elbow. Their negligent
equipment, added to their short, curling hair, and
the ease and elasticity they display in the management
of their horses, gives them, on the whole, a great
resemblance to the Grecian warriors of the Elgin marbles.
Men, as well as women, are frequently seen without
hats in the streets, and continually uncravatted; and
when their heads are covered, these coverings are
of every shape and hue; from the black beaver, with
or without a rim, through all gradations of cap, to
the simple white cotton nightcap. A painter would
delight in this display of forms and these sparkling
touches of color, especially when contrasted with
the grey of the city, and the tender tints of the
sky, water, and distance, and the broad coloring of
the landscape.”
Footnotes:
[22] “He was son of Osborne de Bolebec and Aveline
his wife, sister to Gunnora, Duchess of Normandy,
great-grandmother to the Conqueror, and was one of
the principal persons who composed the general survey
of the realm, especially for the county of Worcester.
In 1089 he adhered to William Rufus, against his brother
Robert Courthose, and forfeited his Norman possessions
on the king’s behalf, of whose army there he
was a principal commander, and behaved himself very
honorably. Yet, in the time of Henry Ist, he
took the part of the said Courthose against that king,
but died the year following,”—Banks’
Extinct Baronage, III. p. 108.
[23] Duchesne, Scriptores Normanni, p. 809.
[24] P. 668.
LETTER V.
JOURNEY TO HAVRE—PAYS DE CAUX—ST. VALLERY—FECAMP—THE PRECIOUS
BLOOD—THE ABBEY—TOMBS IN IT—MONTIVILLIERS—HARFLEUR.
(Rouen, June, 1818.)