to have been “un des plus beaux edifices et
des plus admirables de la France.” A few
lines afterwards, however, this ingenuous writer confesses
that loaded carriages of any kind were seldom suffered
to pass this
admirable edifice, in consequence
of the expence of repairing it; but that two barges
were continually plying for the transport of heavy
goods. The delay between the destruction of the
stone bridge, and the erection of the boat bridge,
appears to have been occasioned by the desire of the
citizens to have a second similar to the first; but
this, after repeated deliberations, was at last determined
to be impracticable, from the depth and rapidity of
the stream. Napoleon, however, seems to have
thought that the task which had been accomplished
under the auspices of the Empress Matilda, might be
again repeated in the name of the daughter of the
Caesars and the wife of the successor of Charlemagne;
and he actually caused Maria-Louisa to lay the first
stone of a new bridge, at some distance farther to
the east, where an island divides the river into two.
This, I am told, will certainly he finished, though
at an enormous expence, and though it will occasion
great inconvenience to many inhabitants of the quay,
whose houses will be rendered useless by the height
to which it will be necessary to raise the soil upon
the occasion. My informant added, that, small
as is the appearance yet made above water, whole quarries
of stone and forests of wood have been already sunk
for the purpose.
From the scite of the projected bridge, the view eastward
is particularly charming. The bold hill of St.
Catherine presents its steep side of bare chalk, spotted
only in a few places with vegetation or cottages,
and seems to oppose an impassable barrier; the mixture
of country-houses with trees at its base, makes a
most pleasing variety; and, still nearer, the noble
elms of the boulevards add a character of magnificence
possessed by few other cities. The boulevards
of Rouen are rather deficient in the Parisian accompaniments
of dancing-dogs and music-grinders, but the sober
pedestrian will, perhaps, prefer them to their namesakes
in the capital. Here they are not, as at Paris,
in the centre of the town, but they surround it, except
upon the quay, with which they unite at each end,
and unite most pleasingly; so that, immediately on
leaving this brilliant bustling scene, you enter into
the gloom of a lofty embowered arcade, resembling
in appearance, as well as in effect, the public walks
at Cambridge, except that the addition of females
in the fanciful Norman costume, and of the Seine, and
the fine prospect beyond, and Mont St. Catherine above,
give it a new interest. On the opposite side
of the Seine, the inhabitants of Rouen have another
excellent promenade in the grand cours, which,
for a considerable space, occupies the bank of the
river, turning eastward from the bridge. Four
rows of trees divide it into three separate walks,