Immediately on receiving this intelligence, I requested the boarding officer to engage a passage for me to the Brazils, which being accomplished, I took leave of my kind and respected friend Captain Owen, after having been his guest for nearly twelve months; during which time I had experienced an unvarying series of unequalled attentions, a consideration for my interest and pursuits highly flattering, and had derived, from his conversation and society, an acquisition of truly valuable information; for which I desire to acknowledge myself deeply and gratefully his debtor.

----------
[39] There are a good many runaway slaves living at the south end of the
island, quite independent of all the Portuguese authorities.

[40] It should be explained, that these vessels are permitted to trade for slaves to the southward of the line; but are liable to capture, if found to the northward of the line with slaves on board.  However, they frequently expose themselves to the risk, in a desperate spirit of speculation.

[41] Wild parsley is very abundant in the valleys, besides chickweed, thistles, wild mint, and other herbs.

[42] The guinea fowl feed principally on crickets and chickweed.

[43] Bull terriers.

[44] It is observed, a short time previous to the turtle season, that the sand rises on shore, near the beach, considerably higher than at other times.

[45] The turtle, generally, weigh about 400 lbs.; and, sometimes, as much as 700 lbs.

[46] A small species of gull.

[47] Some have grown so large as to weigh 5 or 6 pounds.

[48] About 50 of this number live at Dampier’s Spring.

[49] They have boats belonging to the Establishment, which are on these days provided with hooks and lines, and sent off those parts of the island where there is known to be good fishing ground.

CHAP.  XIV.

Dutch Galliot—­An Agreeable Companion—­Strange Associates—­Melancholy Account of St. Jago—­Beauty in Tears—­Manner of obtaining Salt, and Water at Mayo—­Pleasures of a Galliot in a heavy Sea—­Dutch Miscalculation—­Distances—­An Oblation to Neptune and Amphitrite (new style)—­Melange, Devotion and Gourmanderie—­Curious Flying-fish—­ Weather—­Whales—­Cape Pigeons—­Anchor off Rio Janeiro—­Distant Scenery—­Custom-house Duties—­Hotel du Nord—­Rua Dircito—­Confusion thrice confounded—­Fruit Girls, not fair, but coquettish—­Music unmusical, or Porterage, with an Obligato Accompaniment—­Landing-places—­ An Evening Walk—­A bad Cold—­Job’s Comforter—­Shoals of Visitors—­ Captain Lyon’s Visit, and Invitation to the Author—­Naval Friends—­ Packet for England—­English Tailors—­Departure for Gongo Soco—­The Party—­Thoughts on Self-Denial—­Uncomfortable Quarters—­Changes of Atmosphere—­Freedom by Halves; or left-handed Charity—­Serra Santa Anna—­Valley of Botaes—­The Ferreirinho, or little Blacksmith—­Dangerous