[Illustration:  TOWN OF SANTA CRUZ, TENERIFFE]

The Diadem transport anchored here soon after us.

Friday, 17th.—­The York, East Indiaman, was lying off this place in the forenoon whilst her boat went on shore with letters.  Some of the officers took horse this morning and went to the town of Laguna, which is about six miles from Santa Cruz.  They found the road in a terrible state, from a quantity of large stones and rubbish, which a late hurricane, with heavy rain, had brought down from the higher lands.  Their ride was a very cheap one, for they only paid half a dollar for each horse, including a guide—­a rare occurrence for Englishmen to find any thing cheap in a foreign country.  Port Oratava, which lies on the opposite or north side of the island, the principal town for commerce on it, is 21 miles by land from Santa Cruz; and it is said to be 36 miles from Oratava to the summit of the Peak, a journey of at least two days’ ascent from the latter place, which is the starting point.

Our visit to this island was too short to be of much interest to a traveller, for it would have required at least a week to have visited the Peak only and returned to Santa Cruz, which I certainly would have done if the ship had remained a sufficient time; as I also wished to have visited Porto Rueva, at Madeira, but on my arrival at that island I had not sufficiently recovered my strength after the indisposition I experienced on leaving England.

They have at Teneriffe, (besides horses, asses, and mules,) camels, which are much in use as beasts of burden.  Smoking is a very general practice here, and consequently there is no want of ordinary cigars; but I was surprised to find that Havannah cigars are very difficult to be procured.  They can be obtained, however, but at un exorbitant rate, in consequence of the risks attending the smuggling.  Tobacco is a royal monopoly, and the duty is so high, that it amounts almost to a prohibition, and consequently affords great temptation to smuggling.  They have ice at their command here in abundance, which is a great luxury for a hot climate.  They bring it down from the mountains, and use it very commonly in lemonade, creams, and for many other purposes.  It is desirable to call here on your way to a hot climate, if it were only to procure a few good drip stones, the best of which are brought from Grand Canary, and which are to be had in great plenty, and very cheap, from one to three Spanish dollars each, which is the most current coin of this island.

Teneriffe, in climate, soil, produce, and general appearance, strongly resembles Madeira, from which it is distant 240 miles, due south.  The principal towns are Port-Oratava, Oratava, Realexo, and Caracheeo, on the north side of the island; and on the south, Santa Cruz, Candilaria, and Adexi; besides the inland towns, Laguna, (the capital) about two leagues from Santa Cruz, Metanza, and Victoria, all on the road