I proceeded to my friends, where a kind and comfortable
home awaited me. Mr. C. possesses a residence
which is certainly one of the most romantic domiciles
in the world. The house stands on a small lawn
upon a point overhanging the rapids, and about half
a mile above the Horse-Shoe Fall. The garden is
behind, washed by a fine branch of the river, which
encircles a wild and thickly wooded island, and on
every side new and interesting prospects appear.
The river is a mile across, and of great depth, and,
for the same distance above the Falls, is one sheet
of foam. We sauntered down in the evening to
the river side, and the rapids lost nothing by a closer
inspection. My bedroom looked directly upon them;
I could watch the smoke of the Fall, as I lay on my
pillow; and with the wild roar of the cataract sounding
in my ears, I closed my first day at Niagara.
The following morning proved fine, and we devoted
the forenoon, of course, to the Falls. Lake Erie
had just broken up, and the icebergs came crushing
down the rapids, in a way highly interesting.
My friends being quite at home in all the mazes of
the river side, conducted me by a wild and rugged
route to the edge of the Table-rock, when, upon emerging
from a tangled brake, I beheld the Horse-shoe or great
British Fall, pouring down its volume of ice and water,
at the distance of a few feet from where we stood.
The rock felt to me as though it vibrated, and a large
mass did in fact lately give way, soon after a party
had retired from the precarious stance. It is
limestone, full of ugly fissures and rents. A
narrow wooden staircase conducts adventurous travellers
to the bottom of the Fall, where a sort of entrance
is generally effected to a short distance under the
sheet, and for which performance a certificate in due
form is served out. The stair was at this time
under repair, and the accumulation of ice below perfectly
reconciled me to wave pretensions to such slippery
honours. At some distance below the Fall, and
opposite to the American staircase, there is a ferry,
to which a safe and most romantic carriage-road has
been lately formed, out of the solid rock, at no small
labour and expense. When a similar accommodation
shall have been provided upon the American side, it
is expected to prove a lucrative concern, but at the
present foot-passengers only can be landed in the
States. The little skiff had just put off, with
a party from the Canada shores, and got involved in
streams of ice, in a way somewhat hazardous, and which
rendered it impossible for the boatmen to return.
The scene from the ferry is indeed magnificent, the
Horseshoe, the American Fall, and Goat Island being
all in view, with the great pool or basin eddying
in fearful and endless turmoil. In the evening
I walked up the river side towards the village of
Chippeway, to visit a natural curiosity upon Mr. C.’s
estate. A spring surcharged with sulphuretted
hydrogen gas rises within a few paces of the river.
A small building is erected over it, and when a candle
is applied to a tube in a barrel, which encloses the
spring, a brilliant and powerful light is evolved.
Close adjoining are the remains of extensive mills
burnt by the Americans during last war. The water
privilege is great, and machinery to any extent might
be kept in play.—Quart. Journ. of
Agriculture.