that held up my train, and the Greek lady who was my interpretress.  I was met at the court door by her black eunuch, who helped me out of the coach with great respect, and conducted me through several rooms, where her she-slaves, finely dressed, were ranged on each side.  In the innermost I found the lady sitting on her sofa, in a sable vest.  She advanced to meet me, and presented me half a dozen of her friends with great civility.  She seemed a very good woman, near fifty years old.  I was surprised to observe so little magnificence in her house, the furniture being all very moderate; and except the habits and number of her slaves, nothing about her that appeared expensive.  She guessed at my thoughts, and told me that she was no longer of an age to spend either her time or money in superfluities; that her whole expense was in charity, and her whole employment praying to God.  There was no affectation in this speech; both she and her husband are entirely given up to devotion.  He never looks upon any other woman; and, what is much more extraordinary, touches no bribes, notwithstanding the example of all his predecessors.  He is so scrupulous on this point, he would not accept Mr. Wortley’s present, till he had been assured over and over that it was a settled perquisite of his place at the entrance of every ambassador.

She entertained me with all kind of civility till dinner came in, which was served, one dish at a time, to a vast number, all finely dressed after their manner, which I do not think so bad as you have perhaps heard it represented.  I am a very good judge of their eating, having lived three weeks in the house of an effendi at Belgrade, who gave us very magnificent dinners, dressed by his own cooks, which the first week pleased me extremely; but I own I then began to grow weary of it, and desired our own cook might add a dish or two after our manner.  But I attribute this to custom.  I am very much inclined to believe an Indian, that had never tasted of either, would prefer their cookery to ours.  Their sauces are very high, all the roast very much done.  They use a great deal of rich spice.  The soup is served for the last dish; and they have at least as great variety of ragouts as we have.  I was very sorry I could not eat of as many as the good lady would have had me, who was very earnest in serving me of everything.  The treat concluded with coffee and perfumes, which is a high mark of respect; two slaves kneeling censed my hair, clothes, and handkerchief.  After this ceremony, she commanded her slaves to play and dance, which they did with their guitars in their hands; and she excused to me their want of skill, saying she took no care to accomplish them in that art.

I returned her thanks, and soon after took my leave.  I was conducted back in the same manner I entered; and would have gone straight to my own house; but the Greek lady with me earnestly solicited me to visit the Kiyaya’s lady, saying, he was the second officer in the empire, and ought indeed to be looked upon as the first, the Grand Vizier having only the name, while he exercised the authority.  I had found so little diversion in this harem, that I had no mind to go into another.  But her importunity prevailed with me, and I am extreme glad that I was so complaisant.