Yet these people have some good qualities; they are very zealous and faithful where they serve, and look upon it as their business to fight for you upon all occasions.  Of this I had a very pleasant instance in a village on this side Philipopolis, where we were met by our domestic guard.  I happened to bespeak pigeons for my supper, upon which one of my janissaries went immediately to the Cadi (the chief civil officer of the town), and ordered him to send in some dozens.  The poor man answered that he had already sent about, but could get none.  My janissary, in the height of his zeal for my service, immediately locked him up prisoner in his room, telling him he deserved death for his impudence, in offering to excuse his not obeying my command; but, out of respect to me, he would not punish him but by my order, and accordingly, came very gravely to me, to ask what should be done to him; adding, by way of compliment, that if I pleased he would bring me his head.  This may give you some idea of the unlimited power of these fellows, who are all sworn brothers, and bound to revenge the injuries done to one another, whether at Cairo, Aleppo, or any part of the world; and this inviolable league makes them so powerful, that the greatest man at court never speaks to them but in a flattering tone; and in Asia, any man that is rich is forced to enrol himself a janissary, to secure his estate.

But I have already said enough; and I dare swear, dear madam, that, by this time, ’tis a very comfortable reflection to you that there is no possibility of your receiving such a tedious letter but once in six months; ’tis that consideration has given me the assurance to entertain you so long, and will, I hope, plead the excuse of, dear madam, &c.

To THE COUNTESS OF MAR

The Grand Vizier’s lady

Adrianople, 18 April, O.S. [1717].

I wrote to you, dear sister, and to all my other English correspondents, by the last ship, and only Heaven can tell when I shall have another opportunity of sending to you; but I cannot forbear writing, though perhaps my letter may lie upon my hands this two months.  To confess the truth, my head is so full of my entertainment yesterday, that ’tis absolutely necessary for my own repose to give it some vent.  Without farther preface, I will then begin my story.  I was invited to dine with the Grand Vizier’s lady, and it was with a great deal of pleasure I prepared myself for an entertainment which was never given before to any Christian.  I thought I should very little satisfy her curiosity (which I did not doubt was a considerable motive to the invitation) by going in a dress she was used to see, and therefore dressed myself in the court habit of Vienna, which is much more magnificent than ours.  However, I chose to go incognita, to avoid any disputes about ceremony, and went in a Turkish coach, only attended by my woman