GEORGE GORDON NOEL, LORD BYRON
1788-1824
To MR. HODGSON
Travel in Portugal
Lisbon, 16 July, 1809.
Thus far have we pursued our route, and seen all sorts of marvellous sights, palaces, convents, &c.,—which, being to be heard in my friend Hobhouse’s forthcoming Book of Travels, I shall not anticipate by smuggling any account whatsoever to you in a private and clandestine manner. I must just observe, that the village of Cintra in Estremadura is the most beautiful, perhaps, in the world.
I am very happy here, because I loves oranges, and talks bad Latin to the monks, who understand it, as it is like their own,—and I goes into society (with my pocket pistols), and I swims in the Tagus all across at once, and I rides on an ass or a mule, and swears Portuguese, and have got bites from the mosquitoes. But what of that? Comfort must not be expected by folks that go a-pleasuring.
When the Portuguese are pertinacious, I say ’Carracho!’—the great oath of the grandees, that very well supplies the place of ’Damme!’—and when dissatisfied with my neighbour, I pronounce him ‘Ambra di merdo’. With these two phrases, and a third,’Avra bouro’, which signifieth ‘Get an ass’, I am universally understood to be a person of degree and a master of languages. How merrily we lives that travellers be!—if we had food and raiment. But, in sober sadness, anything is better than England, and I am infinitely amused with my pilgrimage, as far as it has gone.