In winter, when their canals are frozen, every house is forsaken, and all people are on the ice; sleds, drawn by horses, and skating, are at that time the reigning amusements.  They have boats here that slide on the ice, and are driven by the winds.  When they spread all their sails, they go more than a mile and a half a minute, and their motion is so rapid the eye can scarcely accompany them.  Their ordinary manner of travelling is very cheap and very convenient:  they sail in covered boats drawn by horses; and in these you are sure to meet people of all nations.  Here the Dutch slumber, the French chatter, and the English play at cards.  Any man who likes company may have them to his taste.  For my part I generally detached myself from all society, and was wholly taken up in observing the face of the country.  Nothing can equal its beauty; wherever I turn my eye, fine houses, elegant gardens, statues, grottos, vistas, presented themselves; but when you enter their towns you are charmed beyond description.  No misery is to be seen here; every one is usefully employed.

Scotland and this country bear the highest contrast.  There hills and rocks intercept every prospect; here ’tis all a continued plain.  There you might see a well-dressed duchess issuing from a dirty close; and here a dirty Dutchman inhabiting a palace.  The Scotch may be compared to a tulip planted in dung; but I never see a Dutchman in his own house, but I think of a magnificent Egyptian temple dedicated to an ox.  Physic is by no means here taught so well as in Edinburgh; and in all Leyden there are but four British students, owing to all necessaries being so extremely dear, and the professors so very lazy (the chemical professor excepted), that we don’t much care to come hither.  I am not certain how long my stay here may be; however, I expect to have the happiness of seeing you at Kilmore, if I can, next March.

Direct to me, if I am honoured with a letter from you, to Madam Diallion’s at Leyden.

Thou best of men, may Heaven guard and preserve you, and those you love.

TO HIS BROTHER HENRY

Family matters

1759.

...  Imagine to yourself a pale, melancholy visage, with two great wrinkles between the eyebrows, with an eye disgustingly severe, and a big wig; and you may have a perfect picture of my present appearance.  On the other hand, I conceive you as perfectly sleek and healthy, passing many a happy day among your own children, or those who knew you a child.

Since I knew what it was to be a man, this is a pleasure I have not known.  I have passed my days among a parcel of cool, designing beings, and have contracted all their suspicious manner in my own behaviour.  I should actually be as unfit for the society of my friends at home, as I detest that which I am obliged to partake of here.  I can now neither partake of the pleasure of a revel, nor contribute to raise