My guide himself was an absolutely honest, thoroughly loyal German specimen.  With inward joy he pointed out to me the “place” where the Duke of Cambridge, when he visited the mines, dined with all his train, and where the long wooden table yet stands; with the accompanying great chair, made of ore, in which the Duke sat.  “This is to remain as an eternal memorial,” said the good miner, and he related with enthusiasm how many festivities had then taken place, how the entire “stulm” had been adorned with lamps, flowers, and decorations of leaves; how a miner boy had played on the cithern and sung; how the dear, delighted, fat Duke had drained many healths, and what a number of miners (himself especially) would cheerfully die for the dear, fat Duke, and for the whole house of Hanover.  I am moved to my very heart when I see loyalty thus manifested in all its natural simplicity.  It is such a beautiful sentiment, and such a purely German sentiment!  Other people may be wittier, more intelligent, and more agreeable, but none is so faithful as the real German race.  Did I not know that fidelity is as old as the world, I would believe that a German heart had invented it.  German fidelity is no modern “Yours very truly,” or “I remain your humble servant.”  In your courts, ye German princes, ye should cause to be sung, and sung again, the old ballad of The Trusty Eckhart and the Base Burgund who slew Eckhart’s seven children, and still found him faithful.  Ye have the truest people in the world, and ye err when ye deem that the old, intelligent, trusty hound has suddenly gone mad, and snaps at your sacred calves!

And, like German fidelity, the little mine-lamp has guided us quietly and securely, without much flickering or flaring, through the labyrinth of shafts and stulms.  We ascend out of the gloomy mountain-night—­sunlight flashes around—­“Good luck to you!”

Most of the miners dwell in Clausthal, and in the adjoining small town of Zellerfeld.  I visited several of these brave fellows, observed their little households, heard many of their songs, which they skilfully accompany with their favorite instrument, the cithern, and listened to old mining legends, and to their prayers which they are accustomed to offer daily in company ere they descend the gloomy shaft; and many a good prayer did I offer up with them!  One old climber even thought that I ought to remain among them, and become a man of the mines; but as I took my leave notwithstanding, he gave me a message to his brother, who dwelt near Goslar, and many kisses for his darling niece.

Tranquil even to stagnation as the life of these people may appear, it is, nevertheless, a real and vivid life.  That ancient trembling crone who sits behind the stove opposite the great clothes-press may have been there for a quarter of a century, and all her thinking and feeling is, beyond a doubt, intimately blended with every corner of the stove and the carvings of the press.  And clothes-press and stove live—­for a human being hath breathed into them a portion of her soul.