We were looking for a town that lives under shell-fire.  The regular road to it was reported unhealthy—­not that the women and children seemed to care.  We took byways of which certain exposed heights and corners were lightly blinded by wind-brakes of dried tree-tops.  Here the shell holes were rather thick on the ground.  But the women and the children and the old men went on with their work with the cattle and the crops; and where a house had been broken by shells the rubbish was collected in a neat pile, and where a room or two still remained usable, it was inhabited, and the tattered window-curtains fluttered as proudly as any flag.  And time was when I used to denounce young France because it tried to kill itself beneath my car wheels; and the fat old women who crossed roads without warning; and the specially deaf old men who slept in carts on the wrong side of the road!  Now, I could take off my hat to every single soul of them, but that one cannot traverse a whole land bareheaded.  The nearer we came to our town the fewer were the people, till at last we halted in a well-built suburb of paved streets where there was no life at all. . . .

A WRECKED TOWN

The stillness was as terrible as the spread of the quick busy weeds between the paving-stones; the air smelt of pounded mortar and crushed stone; the sound of a footfall echoed like the drop of a pebble in a well.  At first the horror of wrecked apartment-houses and big shops laid open makes one waste energy in anger.  It is not seemly that rooms should be torn out of the sides of buildings as one tears the soft heart out of English bread; that villa roofs should lie across iron gates of private garages, or that drawing-room doors should flap alone and disconnected between two emptinesses of twisted girders.  The eye wearies of the repeated pattern that burst shells make on stone walls, as the mouth sickens of the taste of mortar and charred timber.  One quarter of the place had been shelled nearly level; the facades of the houses stood doorless, roofless, and windowless like stage scenery.  This was near the cathedral, which is always a favourite mark for the heathen.  They had gashed and ripped the sides of the cathedral itself, so that the birds flew in and out at will; they had smashed holes in the roof; knocked huge cantles out of the buttresses, and pitted and starred the paved square outside.  They were at work, too, that very afternoon, though I do not think the cathedral was their objective for the moment.  We walked to and fro in the silence of the streets and beneath the whirring wings overhead.  Presently, a young woman, keeping to the wall, crossed a corner.  An old woman opened a shutter (how it jarred!), and spoke to her.  The silence closed again, but it seemed to me that I heard a sound of singing—­the sort of chant one hears in nightmare-cities of voices crying from underground.