[Illustration:  By permission of Messrs. Charles Parker, Sons & Co.  FIG. 37 DOBBY LOOM]

A considerable quantity of Wilton and Brussels carpets is made from jute yarns, and Fig. 38 illustrates a loom at work on this particular branch of the trade.  The different colours of warp for forming the pattern me from small bobbins in the five frames at the back of the loom (hence the term 5-frame Brussels or Wilton carpet) and the ends passed through “mail eyes” and then through the reed.  The design is cut on the three sets of cards suspended in the cradles in the front of the loom, and these cards operate on the needles of the jacquard machine to raise those colours of yarn which e necessary to produce the colour effect in the cloth t correspond with the colour effect on the design paper made by the designer.  This machine weaves the actual Brussels and Wilton fabrics, and these cloths are quite different from that illustrated at P, Fig. 32.  In both fabrics, however, ground or foundation warps are required.  It need hardly be said that there is a considerable difference between the two types of cloth, as well as between the designs and the looms in which they are woven.[2]

[Footnote 2:  For structure of carpets, see pp. 394-114, Textile Design:  Pure and Applied, by T. Woodhouse and T. Milne.]

[Illustration:  FIG. 38 BRUSSELS CARPET JACQUARD LOOM]

In the weaving department there are heavy warp beams to be placed in the looms, and in the finishing department there are often heavy rolls of cloth to be conveyed from the machines to the despatch room.  Accidents often happen when these heavy packages, especially the warp beams, are being placed in position.  In order to minimize the danger to workpeople and to execute the work more quickly and with fewer hands, some firms have installed Overhead Runway Systems, with suitable Lifting Gear, by means of which the warp beams are run from the dressing and drawing-in departments direct to the looms, and then lowered quickly and safely into the bearings.  Such means of transport are exceedingly valuable where the looms are set close to each other and where wide beams are employed; indeed, they are valuable for all conditions, and are used for conveying cloth direct from the looms as well as warp beams to the looms.  Fig. 39 shows the old wasteful and slow method of transferring warp beams from place to place, while Fig. 40 illustrates the modern and efficient method.  The latter figure illustrates one kind of apparatus, supplied by Messrs. Herbert Morris, Ltd., Loughborough, for this important branch of the industry.

[Illustration:  FIG. 39.  THE OLD WAY]

[Illustration:  FIG. 40.  THE NEW WAY By permission of Messrs. Herbert Morris, Ltd.]

CHAPTER XV.  FINISHING