[Illustration:  FIG. 35 WEAVING SHED WITH BELT-DRIVEN LOOMS]

During the operation of weaving, the shuttle, in which is placed a cop of weft, similar to that on the cop winding machine in Fig. 25, and with the end of the weft threaded through the eye of the shuttle, is driven alternately from side to side of the cloth through the opening or “shed” formed by two layers of the warp.  The positions of the threads in these two layers are represented by the designs, see Fig. 33, and while one layer occupies a high position in the loom the other layer occupies a low position.  The threads of the warp are placed in these two positions by the leaves of the camb (termed healds and also gears in other districts) and it is between these two layers that the shuttle passes, forms a selvage at the edge each time it makes a journey across, and leaves a trail or length of weft each journey.  The support or lay upon which the shuttle travels moves back to provide room for the shuttle to pass between the two layers of threads, and after the shuttle reaches the end of each journey, the lay with the reed comes forward again, and thus pushes successively the shots of weft into close proximity with the ones which preceded.

[Illustration:  FIG. 36 LOOMS DRIVEN WITH INDIVIDUAL MOTORS By permission of The English Electric Co., Ltd.]

The order of lifting and depressing the threads of the warp is, as already stated, demonstrated on the design paper in Fig. 33, and the selected order determines, in the simplest cases, the pattern on the surface of the cloth when the warp and weft yarns are of the same colour.  A great diversity of pattern can be obtained by the method of interlacing the two sets of yarn, and a still greater variety of pattern is possible when differently-coloured threads are added to the mode of interlacing.

To illustrate the contrast in the general appearance of a weaving shed in which all the looms are driven by belts from overhead shafting as in Fig. 35, and in a similar shed in which all the looms are individually driven by small motors made by the English Electric Co., Ltd. we introduce Fig. 36.  This particular illustration shows cotton weaving shed, but precisely the same principle of driving is being adopted in many jute factories.

A great variety of carpet patterns of a similar nature to that illustrated at C, Fig. 32, can be woven in looms such as those illustrated in Fig. 35; indeed, far more elaborate patterns than that mentioned and illustrated are capable of being produced in these comparatively simple looms.  When, however, more than 4 leaves are required for the weaving of a pattern, a dobby loom, of the nature of that shown in Fig. 37, is employed; this machine is made by Messrs. Charles Parker, Sons & Co., Ltd., Dundee.  The dobby itself, or the apparatus which lifts the leaves according to the requirements of the design, is fixed on the upper part of the frame-work, and is designed to control 12 leaves, that is, it operates 12 leaves, each of which lifts differently from the others.