As already indicated, there are several degrees of fineness or coarseness in all the groups, particularly in the types marked H, B, T and S. The structure or weave in all varieties of any one group is constant and as stated.
All the weaves are illustrated in the usual technical manner in Fig. 33, and the relation between the simplest of these weaves and the yarns of the cloth is illustrated in Fig. 34. In Fig. 33, the unit weaves in A, B, C, D, E and F are shown in solid squares, while the repetitions of the units in each case are represented by the dots.
[Illustration: FIG. 33 POINT-PAPER DESIGNS SHOWING WEAVERS FOR VARIOUS CLOTHS]
[Illustration: FIG. 34 DIAGRAMMATIC VIEWS OF THE STRUCTURE OF PLAIN CLOTH]
A is the plain weave, 16 units shown, and used for fabrics H and P, Fig. 32.
B is the double warp plain wave, 8 units shown, and shows the method of interlacing the yarns h patterns B and T, Fig. 32. When the warp is made double as indicated in weave B, the effect in the cloth can be produced by using the mechanical arrangements employed for weave A. Hence, the cloths H, B and T can be woven without any mechanical alteration in the loom.
C is the 3-leaf double warp sacking weave and shows 4 units; since each pair of vertical rows of small squares consists of two identical single rows, they may be represented as at D. The actual structure of the cloth S in Fig. 32 is represented on design paper at C, Fig. 33.
D is the single warp 3-leaf sacking weave, 4 units shown, but the mechanical parts for weaving both C and D remain constant.
E is the double warp 4-leaf sacking, 2 units shown, while
F is the single warp 4-leaf sacking, 4 units shown.
The patterns or cloths for E and F are not illustrated.
G is a “herring-bone” design on 24 threads and 4 picks, two units shown. It is typical of the pattern represented at C, Fig. 32, and involves the use of 4 leaves in the loom.
The solid squares in weave A, Fig. 33, are reproduced in the left-hand bottom corner of Fig. 34. A diagrammatic plan of a plain cloth produced by this simple order of interlacing is exhibited in the upper part by four shaded threads of warp and four black picks of weft (the difference is for distinction only). The left-hand intersection shows one thread interweaving with all the four picks, while the bottom intersection shows all the four threads interweaving with one pick. The two arrows from the weave or design to the thread and pick respectively show the connection, and it will be seen that a mark (solid) on the design represents a warp thread on the surface of the cloth, while a blank square represents a weft shot on the surface, and vice versa.
A weaving shed full of various types of looms, and all driven by belts from an overhead shaft, is illustrated in Fig. 35. The loom in the foreground is weaving a 3-leaf sacking similar to that illustrated at S, Fig. 32. while the appearance of a full weaver’s warp beam is shown distinctly in the second loom in Fig. 35. There are hundreds of looms in this modern weaving shed.