There is a great similarity in many of the operations of weaving the simpler types of cloth, although there may be a considerable difference in the appearance of the cloths themselves. In nearly all the various branches of the textile industry the bulk of the work in the weaving departments of such branches consists of the manufacture of comparatively simple fabrics. Thus, in the jute industry, there are four distinct types of cloth which predominate over all others; these types are known respectively as hessian, bagging, tarpauling and sacking. In addition to these main types, there are several other simple types the structure of which is identical with one or other of the above four; while finally there are the more elaborate types of cloth which are embodied in the various structures of carpets and the like.
It is obviously impossible to discuss the various makes in a work of this kind; the commoner types are described in Jute and Linen Weaving Calculations and Structure of Fabrics; and the more elaborate ones, as well as several types of simple ones, appear in Textile Design: Pure and Applied, both by T. Woodhouse and T. Milne.
Six distinct types of jute fabrics are illustrated in Fig. 32. The technical characteristics of each are as follows—
[Illustration: FIG. 32 SIX DISTINCT KINDS OF TYPICAL JUTE FABRICS]
H.—An ordinary “HESSIAN” cloth
made from comparatively fine single
warp and single weft, and the threads
interlaced in the simplest
order, termed “plain weave.”
A wide range of cloths is made from the
scrims or net-like fabrics to others more
closely woven than that
illustrated.
B.—A “BAGGING” made from comparatively
fine single warp arranged in
pairs and then termed “double warp.”
The weft is thick, and the
weave is also plain.
T.—A “TARPAULING” made from
yarns similar to those in bagging,
although there is a much wider range in
the thickness of the weft.
It is a much finer cloth than the typical
bagging, but otherwise the
structures are identical.
S.—A striped “SACKING” made
from comparatively fine warp yarns,
usually double as in bagging, but occasionally
single, with medium
or thick weft interwoven in 3-leaf or
4-leaf twill order. The weaves
are shown in Fig. 33.
C.—One type of “CARPET” cloth
made exclusively from two-ply or
two-fold coloured warp yarns, and thick
black single weft yarns. The
threads and picks are interwoven in two
up, two down twill, directed
to right and then to left, and thus forming
a herring-bone pattern,
or arrow-head pattern.
P.-An uncut pile fabric known as “BRUSSELLETTE.”
The figuring warp
is composed of dyed and printed yarns
mixed to form an indefinite
pattern, and works in conjunction with
a ground warp and weft. The
weave is again plain, although the structure
of the fabric is quite
different from the other plain cloths
illustrated. The cloth is
reversible, the two sides being similar
structure but differing
slightly in colour ornamentation.