young travellers. The little steamboats were
still plying on the Seine and we took one at last
for the trip that opens to one so much that is beautiful
and interesting in architecture and history. It
was a lovely afternoon even for summer and we passed
in and out under the superb arches of the bridges,
beholding the noble apse of Notre Dame with the twin
towers rising beyond, structures associated with grim
events of the Revolution, the masonry of the quays
and the master work of Haussmann who was then putting
a new face upon the old city. Now all was bright
and no thought of danger entered our minds as we revelled
in the pleasures of such an excursion. At length
as we stood on the deck we became aware that we were
undergoing careful scrutiny from a considerable group
who for the most part made up our fellow-passengers.
We had had no thought of ourselves as especially marked.
My clothes, however, had been made in Germany and had
peculiarities no doubt which indicated as much.
I was fairly well grounded in French but had no practice
in speaking. In trying to talk French, my tongue
in spite of me ran into German, which I had been speaking
constantly for six months. This was particularly
the case if I was at all embarrassed; my face and
figure, moreover, were plainly Teutonic and not Latin.
The French ascribed their disasters largely to the
fact that German spies were everywhere prying into
the conditions, and reporting every assailable point
and element of weakness. This belief was well
grounded; the Germans probably knew France better than
the French themselves and skilfully adapted their attacks
to the lacks and negligences which the swarming spies
laid bare. The group, of whose scrutiny we had
become aware, was made up of ouvriers and ouvrieres,
the men in the invariable blouse, with dark matted
hair and black eyes, sometimes with a ratlike keenness
of glance as they surveyed us. The women were
roughly dressed, sometimes in sabots, with heads bare
or surmounted by conical caps. They belonged to
the proletariat, the class out of which had come in
the Reign of Terror the sans-culottes of evil memory
and the tricoteuses who had sat knitting about
the guillotine, the class which, within a few
months, was again to set the world aghast as the mob
of La Commune. As we stood disconcerted
by their intent gaze, they put their heads together
and talked in low and rapid tones; then their spokesman
approached us, a man of polite bearing but ominously
stern. He was not a clumsy fellow, but darkly
forceful and direct, a man capable of a quick, desperate
deed. At the moment there was the grim tiger
in their eyes and from the soft paw the swift protrusion
of the cruel claw. One thought of the wild revolutionary
song, “Ca ca, ca ira, les aristocrats a la lanterne!”
They were the children of the mob that had sung that
song. With a bow, the spokesman said: “Messieurs,
we think you are Germans and we wish to know if we