In writing of the island of Guanassa and the provinces called Iaia, Maia, and Cerabarono, Columbus, who first noted the fact, said that while following these coasts and endeavouring to keep to the east, his ships encountered such resistance that at times he could not take soundings, the adverse current dragging the lead before it touched bottom.  Even with the wind on his stern, he could sometimes make no more than one mile in a day.  This it is that obliges sailors returning to Spain to first make for the upper part of Hispaniola or Cuba, and then strike out northwards on the high sea in order to profit by the north winds, for they would make no headway sailing in a direct line.  But we have several times spoken sufficiently about ocean currents.  It is now the moment to report what is written concerning Darien and the colony founded on its banks which the colonists have named Santa Maria Antigua.

The site is badly chosen, unhealthy, and more pestiferous than Sardinia.  All the colonists look pale, like men sick of the jaundice.  It is not exclusively the climate of the country which is responsible, for in many other places situated in the same latitude the climate is wholesome and agreeable; clear springs of water break from the earth and swift rivers flow between banks that are not swampy.  The natives, however, make a point of living amongst the hills, instead of in the valleys.  The colony founded on the shores of Darien is situated in a deep valley, completely surrounded by lofty hills, in such wise that the direct rays of the sun beat upon it at midday, while as the sun goes down its rays are reflected from the mountains, in front, behind, and all around, rendering the place insupportable.  The rays of the sun are most fierce when they are reflected, rather than direct, nor are they themselves pernicious, as may be observed among the snows on high mountains.  Your Holiness is not ignorant of this.  For this reason the rays of the sun shining upon the mountains reach down, gradually falling to their base, just as a large round stone thrown from their summit would do.  The valleys consequently receive, not only the direct rays, but also those reflected from the hills and mountains.  If, therefore, the site of Darien is unhealthy, it is not the fault of the country but of the site itself chosen by the colony.  The unwholesomeness of the place is further increased by the malodorous swamp surrounding it.  To say the frank truth, the town is nothing but a swamp.  When the slaves sprinkle the floor of the houses, toads spring into existence from the drops of water that fall from their hands, just as in other places I have seen drops of water changed into fleas.  Wherever a hole one palm deep is dug, water bursts forth; but it is filthy and contaminated because of the river which flows through a deep valley over a stagnant bed to the sea.  The Spaniards, therefore, considered changing the site.  Necessity had first of all obliged them to stop there, for the first arrivals