for not having been cleaned up so as to give the go
of the fine lines. The China had been in the
habit of making sixty miles a day more than of this
trip, burning less than 100 tons of coal. As we
climbed in the ladder of the parallels of latitude,
we began to notice a crispness in the air, and it
was lovely to the lungs. It was a pleasure, and
a stimulant surpassing wine, to breathe the north temperate
ozone again, and after a while to catch a frosty savor
on the breeze. We had forgotten, for a few days,
that we were not in a reeking state of perspiration.
Ah! we were more than a thousand miles north of Manila,
and that is as far as the coast of Maine to Cuba.
The wind followed us, and at last gained a speed greater
than our own; then it shifted and came down from the
northwest. It was the wind that swept from Siberia,
and Kamschatka’s grim peninsula pointed us out.
The smoke from our funnels blew black and dense away
southeast, and did not change more than a point or
two for a week. The Pacific began to look like
the North Atlantic. There came a “chill
out of a cloud” as in the poetic case of Annabel
Lee. There had been, during our tropical experience,
some outcries for the favor of a few chills, but now
they were like the typhoons. When it was found
that they might be had we did not want them.
After all, warm weather was not so bad, and the chills
that were in the wind that whistled from Siberia were
rather objectionable. It was singular to call
for one, two, three blankets, and then hunt up overcoats.
White trousers disappeared two or three days after
the white coats. Straw hats were called for by
the wind. One white cap on an officer’s
head responded alone to the swarm of white caps on
the water. The roll of the waves impeded our great
northern circle. We could have made it, but we
should have had to roll with the waves. We got
no higher than 45 degrees. We had our two Thursdays,
and thought of the fact that on the mystical meridian
180, where three days get mixed up in one! The
Pacific Ocean, from pole to pole, so free on the line
where the dispute as to the day it is, goes on forever,
that only one small island is subject to the witchery
of mathematics, and the proof in commonplace transactions
unmixed with the skies that whatever may be the matter
with the sun—the earth do move, is round,
do roll over, and does not spill off the sea in doing
so. At last came shrill head winds, and as we
added fifteen miles an hour to this speed, the harp
strings in the rigging were touched with weird music,
and we filled our lungs consciously and conscientiously
with American air, experiencing one of the old sensations,
better than anything new.