The Northeastern Carpathians include a range of lower hills running down to the so-called Hegyalja, where the wonderful vine which produces the wine of Tokay is grown.  The southeastern range of the Carpathians divides the county of Maramaros from Erdely (Transylvania).  The main part of this country is mountainous and rugged, but here also there is wonderful scenery.  Everything is still very wild in these parts of the land, and tho mineral waters abound everywhere, the bathing-places are very primitive.

The only seaport the country possesses is Fiume, which was given to Hungary by Maria Theresa, who wanted to give Hungary the chance of developing into a commercial nation.  Besides the deep but small mountain lakes, there are several large ones; among these the most important is the Balaton, which, altho narrow, is about fifty miles long.  Along its borders there are summer bathing-places, considered very healthy for children.  Very good wine is produced here, as in most parts of Hungary which are hilly, but not situated too high up among the mountains.  The lake of Balaton is renowned for a splendid kind of fresh-water fish, the Fogas.  It is considered the best fish after trout—­some even prefer it—­and it grows to a good size.

The chief river of Hungary is the Danube, and the whole of Hungary is included in its basin.  It runs through the heart of the country, forming many islands; the greatest is called the Csallokoez, and has over a hundred villages on it.  One of the prettiest and most cultivated of the islands is St. Margaret’s Isle, near Budapest, which has latterly been joined to the mainland by a bridge.  Some years ago only steamers conveyed the visitors to it; these still exist, but now carriages can drive on to the island too.  It is a beautiful park, where the people of Budapest seek the shade of the splendid old trees.  Hot sulfur springs are to be found on the island, and there is a bath for the use of visitors.

The Danube leaves Hungary at Orsova, and passes through the so-called Iron Gates.  The scenery is very beautiful and wild in that part, and there are many points where it is exceedingly picturesque, especially between Vienna and Budapest.  It is navigable for steamships, and so is the next largest river, the Theiss.  This river begins its course in the Southeastern Carpathians, right up among the snow-peaks, amid wild and beautiful scenery, and it eventually empties its waters into the Danube at Titel.  The three largest rivers of Hungary feed the Danube, and by that means reach the Black Sea.

Hungary lies under the so-called temperate zone, but there does not seem much temperance in the climate when we think of the terrible, almost Siberian winters that come often enough and the heat waves occasioning frequent droughts in the lowlands.  The summer is short in the Carpathians; usually in the months of August and September the weather is the most settled.  June and July are often rainy—­sometimes snowstorms cause the barometer to fall tremendously.  In the mountain districts there is a great difference between the temperature of the daytime and that of the night.  All those who go to the Carpathians do well to take winter and Alpine clothing with them.