range, steadily increased in intensity until it became
so severe as to endanger life, and day after day we
plodded wearily on snowshoes ahead of our heavily
loaded sledges, breaking a road in three feet of soft
snow for our struggling, frost-whitened deer.
We made, on an average, about thirty miles a day;
but our deer often came in at night completely exhausted,
and the sharp ivory goads of our Tunguse drivers were
red with frozen blood. Sometimes we bivouacked
at night in a wild mountain gorge and lighted up the
snow-laden forest with the red glare of a mighty camp-fire;
sometimes we shovelled the drifted snow out of one
of the empty
yurts, or earth-covered cabins,
built by the government along the route to shelter
its postilions, and took refuge therein from a howling
blizzard. Hardened as we were by two previous
winters of arctic travel, and accustomed as we were
to all the vicissitudes of northern life, the crossing
of the Stanavoi range tried our powers of endurance
to the uttermost. For four successive days, near
the summit of the pass on the western slope, mercury
froze at noon. [Footnote: We had only a mercurial
thermometer, so that we did not know how much below
-39 deg. the temperature was.] The faintest breath
of air seared the face like a hot iron; beards became
tangled masses of frosty wire; eyelids grew heavy
with long snowy fringes which half obscured the sight;
and only the most vigorous exercise would force the
blood back into the benumbed extremities from which
it was constantly being driven by the iron grasp of
the cold. Schwartz, the oldest member of our
party, was brought into a Tunguse encampment one night
in a state of unconsciousness that would soon have
ended in death, and even our hardy native drivers
came in with badly frozen hands and faces. The
temperature alone would have been sufficient evidence,
if evidence were needed, that we were entering the
coldest region on the globe—the Siberian
province of Yakutsk. [Footnote: In some parts
of this province the freezing point of mercury, or
about forty degrees below zero Fahrenheit, is the
average temperature of the three winter months, and
eighty-five degrees below zero have sometimes been
observed.]
In a monotonous routine of walking on snowshoes, riding
on reindeer-sledges, camping in the open, or sleeping
in smoky Tunguse tents, day after day and week after
week passed, until at last we approached the valley
of the Aldan—one of the eastern tributaries
of that great arctic river the Lena. Climbing
the last outlying ridge of the Stanavoi range, one
dark, moonless evening in November, we found ourselves
at the head of a wild ravine leading downward into
an extensive open plain. Away below and in front,
outlined against the intense blackness of the hills
beyond the valley, rose four or five columns of luminous
mist, like pillars of fire in the wilderness of the
Exodus.
“What are those?” I inquired of my Tunguse
driver.
“Yakut,” was the brief reply.