at all. The disappearance of snow and the appearance
of vegetation are almost simultaneous; and although
the
tundras or moss steppes, continue for some
time to hold water like a saturated sponge, they are
covered with flowers and blossoming blueberry bushes,
and show no traces of the long, cold winter which
has so recently ended. In less than a month after
the disappearance of snow in 1860, I collected from
one high plain about five acres in extent, near the
mouth of the Gizhiga River, more than sixty species
of flowers. Animal life of all kinds is equally
prompt in making its appearance. Long before the
ice is out of the gulfs and bays along the coast,
migratory birds begin to come in from the sea in immense
numbers. Innumerable species of ducks, geese,
and swans—many of them unknown to the American
ornithologist—swarm about every little pool
of water in the valleys and upon the lower plains;
gulls, fish-hawks, and eagles, keep up a continual
screaming about the mouths of the numerous rivers;
and the rocky precipitous coast of the sea is literally
alive with countless millions of red-beaked puffin
or sea-parrots, which build their nests in the crevices
and upon the ledges of the most inaccessible cliffs,
and at the report of a pistol fly in clouds which fairly
darken the air. Besides these predatory and aquatic
birds, there are many others which are not so gregarious
in their habits, and which, consequently, attract
less notice. Among these are the common barn and
chimney swallows, crows, ravens, magpies, thrushes,
plover, ptarmigan, and a kind of grouse known to the
Russians as “teteref.” Only one singing-bird,
as far as I know, is to be found in the country, and
that is a species of small ground-sparrow which frequents
the drier and more grassy plains in the vicinity of
the Russian settlements.
The village of Gizhiga, where we had temporarily established
our headquarters, was a small settlement of perhaps
fifty or sixty plain log houses, situated upon the
left bank of the Gizhiga River, eight or ten miles
from the gulf. It was at that time one of the
most important and flourishing settlements upon the
coast of the Okhotsk Sea, and controlled all the trade
of north-eastern Siberia as far north at the Anadyr
and as far west as the village of Okhotsk. It
was the residence of a local governor, the headquarters
of four or five Russian merchants, and was visited
annually by a government supply steamer, and several
trading vessels belonging to wealthy American houses.
Its population consisted principally of Siberian Cossacks
and the descendants of compulsory emigrants from Russia
proper, who had received their freedom as compensation
for forcible expatriation. Like all other settled
inhabitants of Siberia and Kamchatka, they depended
for their subsistence principally upon fish; but as
the country abounded in game, and the climate and
soil in the valley of the Gizhiga River permitted
the cultivation of the hardier kinds of garden vegetables,