from Gizhiga sometimes has to hunt for it a whole
day, and if he be not familiar with the net-work of
channels into which the Anadyr River is here divided,
he may not find it at all. The inhabitants of
all four settlements divide their time in summer between
fishing, and hunting the wild reindeer which make annual
migrations across the river in immense herds.
In winter they are generally absent with their sledges,
visiting and trading with bands of Wandering Chukchis,
going with merchandise to the great annual fair at
Kolyma, and hiring their services to the Russian traders
from Gizhiga. The Anadyr River, in the vicinity
of the village and for a distance of seventy-five
miles above, is densely wooded with trees from eighteen
to twenty-four inches in diameter, although the latitude
of the upper portion of it is 66 deg. N. The climate
is very severe; meteorological observations which
we made at Markova in February, 1867, showed that
on sixteen days in that month the thermometer went
to -40 deg., on eight days it went below -50 deg.,
five days below -60 deg., and once to -68 deg..
This was the lowest temperature we ever experienced
in Siberia. The changes from intense cold to comparative
warmth are sometimes very rapid. On February
18th, at 9 A.M., the thermometer stood at -52 deg.,
but in twenty-seven hours it had risen seventy-three
degrees and stood at +21 deg.. On the 21st it
marked +3 deg. and on the 22d -49 deg., an equally
rapid change in the other direction. Notwithstanding
the climate, however, Anadyrsk is as pleasant a place
to live as are nine tenths of the Russian settlements
in north-eastern Siberia, and we enjoyed the novelty
of our life there in the winter of 1866 as much as
we had enjoyed any part of our previous Siberian experience.
The day which succeeded our arrival we spent in resting
and making ourselves as presentable as possible with
the limited resources afforded by our sealskin trunks.
Thursday, January 6th, N.S. was the Russian Christmas,
and we all rose about four hours before daylight to
attend an early service in the church. Everybody
in the house was up; a fire burned brightly in the
fireplace; gilded tapers were lighted before all the
holy pictures and shrines in our room, and the air
was fragrant with incense. Out of doors there
was not yet a sign of daybreak. The Pleiades were
low down in the west, the great constellation of Orion
had begun to sink, and a faint aurora was streaming
up over the tree-tops north of the village. From
every chimney rose a column of smoke and sparks, which
showed that the inhabitants were all astir. We
walked over to the little log church as quickly as
possible, but the service had already commenced when
we entered and silently took our places in the crowd
of bowing worshippers. The sides of the room
were lined with pictures of patriarchs and Russian
saints, before which were burning long wax candles
wound spirally with strips of gilded paper. Clouds